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Years ago i needed to colour code the clutch cover on my zx9 ninja (was an awesome titanium/gold-ish colour) i took the part into a local commercial paint centre and they colour coded it for me into a spray can. Wasn't much more than $25 from memory and was spot on with the original.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Give it a shot, I'm sure it's even easier now a days [emoji106]
Over my way Milsomes do an awesome job colour matching. Both liquid and spray packs. Very reasonable.
Suppose you could just buy a second SLS mounting box and mount one.... Not giving up SLS either LOL The other thing is that the D2 has the rear aircon system which robs a whole lot of space but am seriously considering mounting it to the barrier guard but the idea of a second SLS box under the vehicle is appealing too now.Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Do not disagree at all, that said the endless air compressors are clutched so the loss is not going to be kW's when free wheeling. In my case with the EWP and EF would be never ever be in deficit even if it was running full time, though, they still have to prove themselves as viable in the real world! The ACE system of course is running full time and therefore be robbing power from the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
The ease of the fitting to the ACE accessory spot and just a switch wire basically is tremendously appealing and would do it in a heartbeat, if I didn't have the benefits of ACE available. If I ever have to upgrade the D2a (no ACE but does have SLS) from Daily Driver to Track, thinking this would be a gold star definite and a lot easier than mounting a tank and electric compressor etc.
Bonnet back on and all underneath complete, its been a journey.
Airbox fitted after taking a hole saw to inhibitor and the Carrs rubber to the sidewall fitted, bit of fiddling with the intercooler piping to ensure the nipple / controller was safe from the fast spinning fan belt, then the catch can was fitted and bracket off the tip over switch - very happy with the installation and used the original pipe cut down from for the intake to the catch can.
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Filled up the auto, just under 4 litres of ATF and then a final fiddle with the battery tray, getting it ready for the winch attachment.
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It is funny how light the bonnet is and having watched the video on fitting it by putting the strut in place, when we did it, easy.
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So tomorrow will take it for a good run after we wire in the gauges, plumbed to the dash board, just not hooked up.
Most interesting, the experiment did not work but it would appear that what I was wrong about may not yet be what the consensus thinks it may be.
Taking it back to Sunday afternoon and the initial driving on the road, with disappointment the temp rose to 120 before shut off and then the EWP and EF did what they do and brought the temp down rather quickly. Whole lot of discussion with the BIL as to why (did drive without the headlights and exterior bits on stupidly but it was getting late), looked at a lot of scenarios and spent last night doing more investigations and reading up on the use of EF's and sent an email to Davies Craig.
So this afternoon got a reply and then had a great conversation with the product engineer Alex.
Firstly, the placement of the EWP was wrong and this will be relocated down low, well as low as possible basically sitting on the power steering pump or maybe the top of the steering guard if necessary. This incorrect placement was the reason we had such difficulty removing air locks when refilling it would appear and we may not have removed them all.
Secondly the placement of the sensor after the secondary return pipe on the upper hose towards the radiator end meant we were pouring relatively cold fluid on the sensor which gave the enormous discrepancies between the Nanocom and the EWP controller, with the sensor reading in the 20's while the Nanocom was telling us it 86C and then the sensor reading climbing and matching the readings, the Controller reading lower at the temps climbed, interesting.
Our attempt at the shroud, well it was rubbish LOL and advice has been given regarding the rectification. Will keep this for another time as to the effectiveness when it is done.
The good news is that the engine appears fine and no lasting damage, the AMC head may be a bit more resilient but I would not want to take it any higher.
The short drive was however proof of concept even at the low blow rates, the engine felt well, sort of, you know, progressive and smooooothhhh.
Not done just yet on the EWP and EF!
So did get the gauges up and running and do need that smoked vinyl, heavily smoked vinyl, even in the daylight they are bright, still yet to decide to either paint the console or replace it with the fiberglass one I got to replace it due to the cracking. Plastic welding on both sides of the plastic was required, that stuff is stuffed so to speak and oh so brittle. The hole for the low coolant sensor was just a bit big so a dob of silicon will fix that. Sure is tight up there behind the dashboard would have been much easier to just use the MUD top console but do like the position of the gauges there in straight ahead sight.
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Forgot to add the simple solution to welding lugs on the turbo inlet, no compromise of the tubing and adjustable (if this was needed)
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Started replacing the UJ’s on the front prop shaft.
Mine doesn’t have any way to grease the sliding joint other than getting under the rubber boot pictured.
I haven’t greased it since I took over maintenance years ago. Still slides smoothly and lots of probably very old grease inside.
I recall looking for the blanking screw for a grease nipple way back and there is none.
Up to the wee hours last night getting to know and understand the cooling system as to why we had issues and where the issues stemmed from in relation to the under reading of the EWP temp sensor against the Nanocom until temps got high. More so in the way that fluids are drawn / expelled from the interior heating circuit / coolant pressure bottle / fuel cooler as explained by the Davies Craig engineer. it took some time to sink in I must admit.
It looked at one point his suggestion that I would have to re-route hose, which is what I was trying to work out, which one and to where and more importantly how!
Then once I got a good understanding as to the flows, suggest that simply the placement of the pump before the metal piping at the front of the engine meant we were forcing fluid past the return and this was forcing fluid backwards which then expelled to the top of the engine to the main radiator return, blowing cold water on the EWP temp sensor which we situated after the hose and close to the radiator.
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This weekend am going to place the EWP after the front metal coolant pipe which should draw the fluid out / create suction in the circuit and mimic the original pressure layout of the system. This is actually one of the few areas where there is a little space, down below the power steering pump replacing the pipe where the coolant enters the engine block. It also means that if we do have issues further on down the track with the modified installation of Electric Fan, can simply put the viscous fan and shrouding back on without modification to make space for the EWP which would have sat the bottom corner of the radiator and with associated piping may have caused problems.
The green circle is where the EWP will be situated, but looking now a the end of the lower metal cooling pipe
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The lower front metal coolant pipes, we had already removed the front pipe and the return piping from the upper radiator hose - was told not to replace this it was totally unnecessary, but was looking to replace as part / solution of the re routing of the coolant bottle / fuel cooler line.
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Read many conflicting forum posts regarding the pipe marked in red and how the thermostat worked, this below would appear to be correct, that dangly pipe is only operational when the coolant is at low temp and the thermostat effectively blocks it off once open and the direction is down, not up, creating a loop before the radiator (which is not operational until the thermostat opens). Removing it as a matter of course with the thermostat in place would be causing the fluid to go through the heater circuit only at much greater pressures than designed for.
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That's correct now and should be ok, I wasn't paying attention and thought where you are going to put the pump now is where you had it from day one. The pipe you marked in red has the arrow going the wrong way in the diagram as you have now understood, and people have not picked it up when reading the cooling circuit description.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
You put bottom radiator outlet direct to metal pipe going to EWP then to block intake (as per your green circle)and leave the metal pipe that had the drop piping from the upper radiator hose going into the original thermostat unused, it is not part of the coolant bottle/fuel cooler setup.
The coolant bottle and fuel cooler are plumbed into the same pipe the bottom radiator hose connects to i.e. leave that as per factory.
I also would not be concerned about the over pressuring the heating system circuit spiel in the manual either as it is only relevant in the stock system, which is what the drop pipe from the upper radiator hose is there for (and aids faster heating by bypassing the radiator)
I have removed the fuel cooler (experimental to see if really needed) and rejigged some of the piping ready to put a thermostat in the top hose just after the heater take off and turn it into a 'standard' coolant flow and have done a fair bit of following the water flow.
You should be ok from here me thinks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp38
We had looked at putting the EWP there initially, but with so much going on, went with the 'standard' installation point having no idea as to the impact it would have, it is just coolant flowing around isn't it!! Can say with all honesty was a bit flat driving home Sunday night trying to work out how we got it so wrong, not rocket science just thermodynamics it turns out lol.
Like the lateral thinking of the relocation, thinking you are making the cut at the droopy pipe, discarding this and inserting the thermostat there as I did with the coolant alarm / temp probe, are you also changing / experimenting with the temp range of the thermostat? This seems a popular thing to do with the V8 D2's in the States. One of the points made to me is that the standard flow system seems to be alright and is not under engineered for hotter climates that is, made for Pommy conditions not Aus.
My understanding re the fuel cooler from reading was that the circuit was to steady the temps rather than just cooling, warming it up at the start and cooling it once up to temp. Now to me it seems to be a little weird as the flow is not likely to be hotter on cold mornings as most people when its cold, turn the HVAC system up to get warm inside as quickly as possible, draining the heat out of the fluid and then when it is 'hot' turn it off providing hotter coolant across the fuel matrix... Therefore I came to the conclusion it is more a fuel warmer, not heater just warmer.
The FPR is sending the fuel through the head and once in the head fuel is 'hot' before it gets to the injectors anyway.
After a lot of struggles I couldn’t move some of the old UJ’s on the double cardan. Decided to retire the shaft given the sliding joint is also not serviceable. Bought a new one with fully greasable components.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb
