What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

radiator patched back up after putting a pinhole in it (first time working in the engine bay without cardbaord protecting the radiator doh) and put back in followed by intercooler (which had a flush) and all plumbed back in, coolant rail bung + new lr dowty washer put back with a little threadlock

new oem hobourn pas pump back in and connected back up

both systems bled , and topped up once cool. and lovely - no leaks this far. now need to go up some hills under full throttle to make sure no i/c pipes are gonna pop off and im good

Hi - I agree I am often away from my D2TD5 for 1-8 weeks and I have a trickle charger connected on a cheap timer ( I don't trust the charger 100% to not overcharge ) so that its on for 20 mins a day. Works a treat - always well charged and my current battery has lasted more than 6 years so far and is still going strong.
cheers

Nobby

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Originally Posted by ozscott

Put the battery charger on as I will not likely drive it for another 2 weeks or so. The D2 security system really sucks the juice over a period of a few weeks. Really, I posted just to give things a bit of a push there because we are almost at 1,000 pages of posts, which is fantastic.

Cheers

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A busy couple of days.
The car, with new drag link, track rod, steering damper, and ball joints, has stiff, then not stiff steering and loose or sloppy. About every10 degrees the stiffness comes and goes. And the ABS sensor is throwing a fault, low volatage front LHS.
To try and fix the steering I wnr to undo the drag libk from the steering box. I could not get any good leverage so I jacked up the car and removed the wheel, only to see that the drag link had dropped down. here was very little play in the box when young son turned the steering wheel. I put it all back together. It will go in for a wheel alighment, and Rover Range will have a look at it and adivse of what is the problem.
To remove the ABS sensor, it is a wheel off job. I did not think that the sensor was the problem, but a cheaper diagnostic than a new hub.
Luckily I had put copper anti seize grease on the hub, it came out with a few taps from a regular hammer, the bad day hammer (LR Time) was not needed. Some how I misplaced the blue bracket that holds the ABS lead away from the drive shaft. After a lot of looking, and getting the young son to look, I started to install the hub bolts. One last look, and partially hidden under the leaf litter, was the bracket. Putting the cable through the inner guear/fender was ok, after I lubed it up with dish washing detergent. The old ABS sensor had black tape around it near the plug.
I did remember, just, to plug in the new ABS sensor.
Icleared the ABS fault with the Nanocom, the test drive was flawless. No more faults.
And the steering was not so lumpy. Still stiff and non centering but better, maybe the wheeel alignment will work wonders.

check the steering intermediate shaft uni joints.
Shaft is sort of easy to remove, IIRC if you move the fuel cooler, makes it more of an easy job.

Top one requires the shaft replacement, but the bottom one(near the stg box) is individually available. Shaft is horrifically expensive.

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Originally Posted by AK83

check the steering intermediate shaft uni joints.
Shaft is sort of easy to remove, IIRC if you move the fuel cooler, makes it more of an easy job.

Top one requires the shaft replacement, but the bottom one(near the stg box) is individually available. Shaft is horrifically expensive.

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I have a spare shaft, I bought one then looked at the shaft, no play that I can see.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I have a spare shaft, I bought one then looked at the shaft, no play that I can see.

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it's not just play, the joints can seize up, or partially seize, and can cause that little bit of binding too.

Alternatively, if you have recently adjusted the steering box adjuster nut(that takes up slack in the box) ... maybe over done it.

The thing that gets me is that the steering was fine untill I replaced the bits. This stiffness is a post repair effect.

Have you tried it sans the damper? Mine doesn't have one at all and drives well. Could be faulty, could need to be "bled", or could just be pointless.

Just a thought.

The damper is new. As I have a spare steering shaft I'll swap this over on the weekend. The way it binds and releases, binds and releases, etc. And having reduced binding as the 'rusty' bits wear away aslo points to the shaft. It does this with the engine off and I think that rules out the steering box.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

The damper is new. As I have a spare steering shaft I'll swap this over on the weekend. The way it binds and releases, binds and releases, etc. And having reduced binding as the 'rusty' bits wear away aslo points to the shaft. It does this with the engine off and I think that rules out the steering box.

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"Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" is an adage worth remembering. Can you tell me why the shaft has suddenly started binding when it didn't prior to fitting all the new parts? Personally I would start with the new stuff as your problems began after you fitted them, and the damper is the easiest to eliminate. Two bolts.

Up to you though.