Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by ozscott

Did the prep work on the rear ladder that had some rust under the powder coat. Cleaned up and sealed with Xtroll Rust Conquerer UV which is a fantastic product. Will paint over it rather than re powder coating the steel. Also started gluing the instrument binnacle with Areldite Super Strength...bloody plastics. Tomorrow will be another coat of satin black on the plenum cover that has been lovingly Sika'd together from about 8 pieces. Actually has come up reasonably well. Cheers

Right ladder came up well and it's back on. Cheers

Finished putting the araldited instrument binnacle back in with new screws. Looks good. Lavished the front leather seats with some good moisturiser. Now only the sill cover to go back on and I am back in business. Very keen to give her a wash and polish and get some miles under her belt again. Cheers

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

highly recommend these for flushing the cooling system

IMG_20220825_172839.jpg This was my method for last weeks and yesterdays flush.


But that gun looks great for different size hoses and would be awesome for blowing out the heater core and 19mm hoses.

My screw on tap fitting clamped into the hose did the job for now and saved me 100 bucks. And from that position everything was getting reverse flushed . Just couldn't add air.

Water, air and some sort of solvent/soap/chemical with a dedicated machine hooked into every hose was done on my HJ Stato many years ago and got out so much poop it was unbelievable. And there was no overheating reason to do it either , I had decided to just do it as a maintenance item. So quite surprising what can be in there with temps still ok.

Originally Posted by johnp38

....

Put it all back together and filled up with tap water, poured in some RMI-25 additive ..... which is just another suck it and see learning curve experiment.

Ran it up under carport no leaks apparent so parked on lawn.

Haven't checked yet to see if it made the water turn yellow or brought up any visible gunge in the header tank.

It's claimed as being compatible with all additives so will probably add Tectalloy Gold concentrate later when I get the urge to clean the header tank again. (just to see the level in the header tank easy coz of the dark color without popping the cap)

......

I used this stuff in my Tdi when I first got it.
I reckon it worked well.
I did the flush thing with garden hose .. etc. back forward and back again.
I ran for a week with just straight water to see if I get any murk coming out .. but naught! ... just clear water.
So then added the CEM stuff ... didn't feel the need to test their claim that it's "safe to drink" tho! .... again ran it for a week to see what happens, and sure enough my Hard to see through 'clear' header tank went all murky brown inside.
So I reckon it did something. What I dunno? .. did it eat away at the cast iron block?
Anyhow another flush again, another week with just straight water, and another week with this CEM product and all nice and clear yellowy now.
Finally drained it all and then used coolant(I went with Penrite).

I couldn't get the remaining stain of greasy gunge build up out of the header tank.

I use rice as the 'abrasive' to clean out plastic header tanks .. works OK. Fill with your fave cleaning fluid and then add a small amount of rice and shake it baby(obviously block all ports, and cap on) .. then flush.
But the browny stain remained.
I ordered a Bearmach 'very clear' replacement header tank for it ... which ended up being a lucky choice. Removed the old gungy tank only to find a slight leak at the seam that wasn't obvious when installed.


As a side note too: my dad used to run a 2000s Peugeot which he claimed ran hot. I reckon ran normal, but anyhow .. I thought to try flush the coolant(all clear) and then just run it with the CEM stuff I had left over.
Again, maybe 5 years on, still CEM stuff as the coolant, doesn't seem to be a problem either.

20220914_174448.jpg Really enjoying bringing my D2 back up to speed. The TJM (back when made in Aus) bullbar was suffering from sun damage and fade of the powder coat. I used the orbital polisher and cutting compound then polished it. Very happy with the way it came up. Cheers

I have had a problem starting the car, I tries to remove the starter motor, the bolts are on too tight. Anyway I've put then power cable back on and the has been starting ok, until Wednesday, when it took 3 tries and yesterday when it took 2 tries and today when it would not start. Tomorrow when I work on the FPR, I will remove the inlet manifold, hopefully it will make it easier to access the top bolt on the starter motor. I have 2 weeks leave which ought to be enough tome to get the car up an running again.

Originally Posted by Bohica

I have had a problem starting the car, I tries to remove the starter motor, the bolts are on too tight. Anyway I've put then power cable back on and the has been starting ok, until Wednesday, when it took 3 tries and yesterday when it took 2 tries and today when it would not start. ....

I reckon by this you mean it's not cranking(as opposed to cranking but not firing).
Had the same issue, and the main issue was the small solenoid feed wire with the spade connector. Crimped the spade connector a touch to give it a better grip on the spade lug on the starter motor, and presto .. cranked every time.
Also gave all connectors a hit with WD to get some better connectivity too(it gets dirty down there).
Was a while ago, but I think the spade connector is on a thin brown(maybe yellow) wire .. not the main power feed.

In the end bro did fit a solenoid kit through it a few months later .... but mainly as preventative maintenance, not because of failure.

Big day, fitting the upright fridge, dc to dc charger, Schrader lines, air compressor and air controller as well as changing out the rubber on the rear driveshaft to the polyurethane and metal type made for the BMW to hopefully remove the last of the vibration when cruising - also after wrecking two of them on the infrequent full throttle.
20220827_082422.jpg

The fridge is 100 litres and stands just over a metre high and around 450mm square. Had one in the D1 and as we have height but not much length or sq meterage in the rear, it makes good use of the space.
fridge.jpg
Turns out there's a section right down the bottom for green stuff (some 22 cm's of it), but I don't drink Vic Bitter, suppose its a safety mechanism for the lack of supply of Carlton or Melbourne and desperate deseperate times...

PFN-F-100L-01__13614.jpg



Then a longer ABS line to the RR which has constantly come undone when flexing, checking the fluid levels and