Thread: Disco 2 top and bottom ball joints

They must know something we all don't know

To do them you need a ball joint press and it involves stripping the front end down to the cradle on each side

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Having done the ball joints on 2 TD5's in my shed, I can tell you it is a rotten and time consuming job. I have the press as well. Sometimes the axle assembly is rusted into the knuckle and then getting the knuckle separated may require large truck ball joint splitters. Yeh - some here will say just hit with 2 large steel mallets either side - sometimes doesnt work. Continually smashing stuff is not how I work.
Tongue in cheek - Id consider doing it for you at $1000 per side plus airfare and beer.

So, Just go to the dealer and ask if they have the correct LR press and if so pay to get it done - had my P38( same ball joints as D2) done on one side at the dealer for $400 including parts. Labour was only $150 because they had the correct tools and could work quickly. Mind you I asked for new axle seals and they conveniently skipped that step.

The dealer should have the correct press and special tools. Ask to see it. If they dont have it go somewhere else because it will be double the labour for sure.

I just yesterday got an estimate from English auto parts at Tuggerah of 6 hours plus alignment at $95 per hour for both sides.

I had a go to replace the seals only as my BJs are still OK, so couldn't use a pickle fork and about 5 hours later and a broken ball joint splitter and broken spanner I gave up. I did get the top one loose.LOL

And that was after buying bigger hammers.

Regards Philip A

Thanks for the responses guys. Trouble with Canberra is (and yes, I know there is a long list following that statement) is that there is only one dealer, so his prices are, shall we say NASA related, and the other option is one, yes one, Land Rover specialist (Roverworks).

Had a bad experience Roverworks, on my 78 2 door. They did a total carby overhaul (10 hours labour) and welded rear cross member. During the welding they removed the old tank, as you would, then reinstalled it once done. The trouble is they stirred up all the crap from the tank which then subsequently fed in to my nice new overhauled carbies...runs like a bag of bones now........

The rest have quoted prices based on best guess and include making up a jig to do the job....oh well, will keep begging the local dealer to lend me the tool for a fee....thanks for the advice though.

If the dealer has the tools then the max labour would be 2 hours - no more.
6 hours is what I allow at home with a lunch break and lots of malingering.

The night before clean around both ball joints with a wire brush and apply good quality penetrating fluid - not cheapskate WD40. Apply it to where they are pressed into the knuckle and also where the tapered shafts enter the knuckle

Firstly with ball joints, it is normally only the boot torn on the bottom one that is the issue.
However always confirm whether there is wear present - with the wheel off the ground up and a crowbar check for any play. If no play then only the boot needs repair.

The hard bit is separating the knuckle tapers top and bottom. However before that can be achieved, sometimes removing a rusted in axle assembly is the first issue if the car has been on the beach

Ok to break the tapers - you need to get these truck ball joint splitters from eBay -
3pc Heavy Duty Ball Joint TIE ROD END Splitter Remover Tool SET 23 28 34 MM | eBay


It is a kit of three - the two wide mouth ones are for the ball joints and the smaller is for your normal tie rod ends etc.
They don't quite have the reach in that the driving shaft will not align with the ball joint shaft centre- out by about 7mm -so leave the nut on top and bottom with the bottom of the nut flush with the end of the thread.
One of the splitters goes on the bottom ball joint. The other wide mouth one needs some grinding of one arm to get it to go home into the top ball joint.
Beware that the shaft of each ball joint is recessed for a T40H torx bit ? so don't damage that otherwise you will not be able to hold the shaft when you put new nuts on after replacing both ball joints or the replacing just the boots. This is why you sacrifice the nut.


I tried using a bit of plate steel but the offset action drives the splitters out of position continually - maybe someone has a good idea on how to fix that.
Wind both ball joint splitters up together to apply solid pressure to the tapers top and bottom.Once you have heaps of pressure applied, now use two hammers either side of the knuckle housing. It will come apart.

Both nuts will be ruined as they will be dented on their edges. New nylocs are easily procured 12mm and 14mm

The bottom ball joint is always loose but usually with no play - but the top is 99% always still tight as a drum and does not need replacing.

If you just want to change the boot on the bottom ball joint because the ball joint itself is still serviceable, then go ahead and replace it. Boots are available.

Alternatively rather than split the knuckle tapers with the splitters I have highlighted above,just get a new metal blade and a reciprocating saw and cut though the shaft of the tapers top and bottom at the boots. The knuckle falls away and you press the cut off bits out of the knuckle with the vise. In this case you are committed to replacing both ball joints and you would need a ball joint removal and replacement kit - available on eBay. This is a fast method by the way to get the knuckle off but you lose time having remove and press in a new (unwarranted) top ball joint.



Hope this helps
Peter

Attached is the ground arm on one splitter(top ball joint) and the damage done to the nuts.
Maybe Ill reverse the nuts next time - as in put them on upside down so there is more meat to press on. - maybe even weld a small piece onto the side if the nut??

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yodDswj5qIU[/ame]

May help some. Be careful with the ABS sensor upon removing the axle shaft. There is also a small washer/spacer after the sensor is pulled out that you will need to collect so it is not lost. An air hammer works wonders on ball joints, both removing and inserting. Takes merely seconds.

I found that even though my top ball joint was still good, I still had to remove it first in order to remove the bottom one. This was most likely due to the type of tools that I was using but beware. everyone I have ever referred to replaces the joints in pairs regardless of condition. This is standard practice, I don't believe you will find a garage willing to replace only one because they would be unable to warranty the work.