Thread: oil in coolant

IMO it's not the gasket there are dowty seals and o-rings on the banjos, there might be the problem or the cooler body itself is leaking(not so common, i dont know the dimensions but if you remove them you can buy only the seals and o-rings at a dedicated store), there is a repair kit available too(DA1127), it's normal to be oil in coolant cos the coolant is at 1.4 bar and the oil between 1.5 and 3 bar , see this too https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...oolant.201097/

Sorry Brad, I think I forgot to mention that it is likely to be the o rings and dowty seals the other night. Cant think why it slipped my mind! BOR will have the 'rings and seals. I bought a kit of the seals, gaskets to do them. Was something like $40?
Cheers Scott

Over the decades, unfortunately most I've done have leaked through being corroded away, due to a lack of regular coolant changes. Some have been that bad even the outer housing had to be replaced.

The one pictured by sierrafery is the later vision that came along at some point.

If you have the time, its worth pulling apart and seeing if you only need to replace the internal cooler/seals or if you have to replace the complete unit, there is quite a bit of price difference between a complete unit and a repair kit.

Regards
Daz

For the major job it is to replace every hose in the system and the cooler itself not to mention cleaning the oil out of the radiator and heater I would only suggest replacing the cooler assembly as a whole. They DO get eaten away through electrolysis and leak just as much as failing seals/ O rings IME.

JC

Stray current/electrolysis will cause this also.
Read up on stray current in the cooling system and how important it is to have

1. the correct concentration of coolant,
2. correct change interval and
3. demineralized water
4. not to mix coolants without a good flush.

You can build a heavier duty cooler as attached. This one has been in for 10 years and shows plenty of corrosion.

BTW the oil temperature seems to always be lower than the water temperature - maybe higher load is different???. Therefore you would expect in general use for heat to transfer from the coolant to the oil across this element in question.
It doesn't work as an "oil cooler: as far as I can see from watching the data.
I dont know why the engineers went for the complex OEM oil cooler matrix - maybe for colder climates.
I measure oil temperature adjacent to the oil pressure switch - see attached.
The turbo bearings are fed by some cooled oil immediately after the cooler matrix as far as I can make out by looking at the one I currently have out of the vehicle.

Cooler is apparently only about 5 thou old,but has been sitting in vehicle for a fair while with no coolant,PO had sold the radiator and a few other bits,his auto box was crook so he lost interest in it.Cooler shows some corrosion and I can't undo the banjo bolts,either very tight or corroded.

the oil cooler will initially allow the cooling system to vent into the oil system due to the cooling system remaining pressurised after shutdown. The cooling system pressure actually rises on shut down as the heat trapped in the block is not being removed by coolant flow exchanging heat in the block and heat at the radiator.