Thread: Belt tensioner bearing replacement

I just searched for "tensioner" using the old advanced search function and came up with 290 odd results,,

When I replaced the whole arm on my green one the ribs were showing through the pulley!

I searched for 45 minutes through the results and can't find the part number.

Pulley is in good condition

My recommendation is to always replace the full unit.
I've never had success just doing the bearing on these adjusters(or the idler).
Given the Km done the pivot and spring will have wear also.
Keep the old unit(s) with the old belt as spares in the back.
If it's non ACE consider doing the idler pully while your going, it's done the same work.

I'm sure they are the same as the D1 tensioner, remove pulley and drill or grind a small notch in the gap of the snap ring down to the bottom of the ring recess.
Lever old ring out, take pulley and find a circlip that fits.
Bearing will be a 6203, buy Jap if possible.
Fit new bearing along with circlip, jobs done.

The tensioner pulley/bearing arrangement on a TD5 is not the same as a Tdi. The bearing is not replaceable on its own. The pulley is a 2 piece pressed metal arrangement riveted together with the bearing . To replace the bearing you would have to drill the rivets out to seperate the pulley. So it is a total replace job I am afraid.
Cheers Scott

Hi Folks, I have replaced the bearings in both the tensioner and idler (non ACE car). The tensioner was not hard. Drill out rivets and separate the 2 halves of the pulley. I don't remember the part number of the bearing but I sourced it from Bearing Services for affordable cost. To reassemble I used Loctite on the mating surfaces of the halves and joined them with mushroom headed 1/4 inch screws and flat square nuts. Careful which way around you fit them due to clearance on the housing at the rear and mounting plate on the front. Use Loctite on the threads also. Carefully measure the length of the screws for minimal protrusion through the nuts. When nuts fully tightened use a centre punch to pop the centre of the end of the screw which just protrudes from the nut to keep it all from coming apart. Let Loctite cure prior to refitting.
The idler on the other hand is a cast pulley and the bearing is just pressed into it. Remove it, press in a new one and refit. I have a nagging feeling there was a circlip to retain bearing but am not sure. The bearing was also sourced from Bearing Services.
Car has done 40,000 km since the repair and now has 275,000 on clock.
Hope this helps, GIL

The bearing numbers are 6203 and 6303. I've successfully replaced both tensioner and idler bearings twice. You need to drill the rivets, carefully separate the two pulley halves, knock out the bearing then gently press the new bearing and two halves back together again. I used either M5 or M6 bolt with nylock lock nut, in place of the rivets, however I would suggest using a 262 or similar Loctite as well. I'm pretty sure I had to shorten the bolts down so it wouldn't interfere with the arm or housing behind?? Also I recall the other pulley had some little stakes retaining the bearing. Once you've pressed the old bearing out/new one in, you then need to restake the housing to ensure it won't move.
My vehicle has now done 352,000 kms and with the original tensioner. However I do inspect it all regularly.
Now having said all this, do this at your own risk. In my workshop I typically recommend replacing the whole assembly, depending on the situation. Good luck!