Thread: Top Radiator Hose Bleed Screw

Thanks mate. I have had it in for years. Cheers

Originally Posted by rapserv

hopefully you wont have the same problem.... I think I may have nicked it up a little too tight

Use fingers only,thumb and middle finger is good. The screwdriver slot is for REMOVAL ONLY!
Cheers Scott

Originally Posted by schuy1

Use fingers only,thumb and middle finger is good. The screwdriver slot is for REMOVAL ONLY!
Cheers Scott

I normally do, however, when I replaced the radiator a couple of days ago I did not fully screw the sensor into the bleed hole and did not notice until I was towing the van up the hills on the way out of Geraldton and the low water alarm came on. I pulled over straight away and found quite a lot of coolant sprayed all over the place under the bonnet, and because it was scalding hot I did not use my fingers and elected to use a pair of pliers. I did not use excessive force as I know it is fairly delicate, however it must have been a bit too much. I think that the fact that the whole area around bleed screw being so hot must soften the rubber somewhat and may have assisted in seperating the screw and embedded nut.

Ah, yep, that will do it!

I had mine fail on a weekend and as I needed the vehicle I had to do a temporary repair. I found a bolt with a very course thread.

Can't remember the size, but it was a whitworth/national coarse thread.

I cut it very short, drilled and tapped a hole to suit the bleed screw and then screwed the bolt into the hose, cutting a thread in the rubber.

The following Monday I ordered a new hose, but I had so much confidence in the repair that I left it. I do carry the new hose in the vehicle though.

This was two and a half years ago. However February just gone,
I noticed(whilst on holidays) that it was starting to leak. I noticed that it had lifted a little and when I tried to screw it back into the hose it would not tighten

I suspect that this is due to the rubber getting a bit softer with age.

Another temp repair that is still holding out. I screwed it back flush with the hose and then put a cable tie around the hose and over the top of the screw so it can't lift. I then stuck a heap of silicone around to seal it and let it dry.

This was about 5 weeks ago and there are no leaks.

I am very tempted to try this loctite metal to rubber, a product that until this thread I had not heard of

Just use that Loctite as in the instructions and have patience 24 hours to consolidate... i've used it in various soft/medium duty metal to rubber even metal to metal applications and it has never failed

Brass replacement is the way to go off e-bay. It was on of the first things you did on the 200/300TDi and probably should be the same on the TD5.


Proper Araldite is good in emergencies!


Cheers, Jerry