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Thread: V8 Engine Failure due to coolant leak

  1. #11
    sew Guest
    Thanks Pedro - I'll give it a try and see what comes of it.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sew View Post
    Finally got news back on the state of the Disco... blown head gaskets and a warped head. One very dead engine. The quoted cost of repair is more than the car is worth. Sticking another old engine in sounds like an expensive gamble. So at this stage I think it's probably time to cut my losses and send her to the wreckers. Anyone know if there are any around Canberra/Queanbeyan who don't totally rip people off?
    G`day ,

    did they replace the hose and run it and then dismantle it ?

    Blown head gasket you can work out assembled .

    Warped head you can`t be certain .

    If it`s not apart are they saying a possible is a warped head ?

  3. #13
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    do what i did, fill it up with coolant and drive it for 2 years.
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

  4. #14
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    chemiweld,nothing to loose

  5. #15
    Road Stone Guest
    Barrs Leaks, large size for V8s? As said above, nothing to lose.


    Sorry to hear the bad news.


    Would you not get more money back by taking it apart and selling the bits your self?


    Cheers, Jerry

  6. #16
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    2 bottles of Sealup.

  7. #17
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    The killer is the labour cost. If you are handy with tools and can read a repair manual like Rave you could do it for about a $1,000
    That's a VRS kit and having the heads machined and maybe the valves done( depends on work shop) providing the heads are not over warped and haven't gone soft.
    Cheers, Mario


  8. #18
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    And the outcome is.....?

    Cheers
    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    The killer is the labour cost. If you are handy with tools and can read a repair manual like Rave you could do it for about a $1,000
    That's a VRS kit and having the heads machined and maybe the valves done( depends on work shop) providing the heads are not over warped and haven't gone soft.
    Cheers, Mario
    Yep, the V8 is easy enough to work on. I have swapped HG's without lifting the inlet manifold before. At 150K the bottom end should still be good for another 100K.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #20
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    I would rate the bottom ends good for well over 300k. I have an original D1 with 300k and going very strongly and i had a 4.0 D2 with close to 300k and even tbough a head gasket let go the bottom end looks like new. The RV8 blocks are known for longevity if well serviced. I think 400k plus for the bottom end is not wishful thinking. To my mind if no liner shift has occurred by 250k and barring then big overheats they are going nowhere

    Cheers

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