Horn beeps when locking

I had this problem temporarily also.

If you have or can access a Nanocom, it will tell you which door is reading as open. It can differentiate between doors.

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Originally Posted by Mowy

I will have a look tomorrow a little loud right now for the neighbors.. I know my driver door actuator is buggered as it doesn't unlock I actually have one being shipped to me as we speak so was planning an install soon. But now this problem has occurred.

I will try unplug the actuators left side first as I feel it potentially may be caused by some ocean water on the left hand side of the car. Is there just a direct switch to pull the actuator out or do I have to do the full uninstall (torx screwdrivers) ect..

The water may of shorted something as well but will run the tests. (possibly in those 3 holes at the base of the passenger door)

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You don't have to remove anything just unplug the electric connector, first of all inspect on each door where the loom enters the door cos it used to get chaffed there and short to earth is possible there too... the misslock warning can be disabled only with tester, any other "trick" is boll*x IMO

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If you have or can access a Nanocom, it will tell you which door is reading as open. It can differentiate between doors.

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i have serious doubts that any tester can recognise which door is open other than the driver's or the rest all together as long as the input for all the other doors is common on a single pin to BCU cos the switches are all in parallel connection

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Originally Posted by ALARM SYSTEM AND HORN

Input/Output
The input from the door latch switches to the BCU is either zero volts or an open circuit. Zero volts indicates the door
is open. An open circuit indicates that the door is closed. When the BCU sees an open circuit, it pulls the input high
internally.
The driver's door latch switch has a dedicated signal input to the BCU. This allows the BCU to identify the driver's
door position.
The BCU use a common signal input for the remaining door latch switches.
TestBook provides the ability to monitor the real time state of the door latch switches. Remember that the driver's
door is always in a known state. The remaining doors are combined into a single state. The BCU cannot distinguish
the state of the individual doors, other than the driver's door.

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My apologies you are correct. I just had a quick check on the Disco2. The Nanocom just registers Passengers door, Drivers door and bonnet.

The door lock switch activate the interior lights and other locking/alarm and door closing events. See if the interior lights work and dim with all doors including tailgate:)

I notice the interior lights are not coming on when I open the rear door of the 110, but they come on when the other doors are opened. Could that be related or a separate issue, I wonder?

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

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Originally Posted by northiam

The door lock switch activate the interior lights and other locking/alarm and door closing events. See if the interior lights work and dim with all doors including tailgate:)

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It was interesting the entire drive lastnight the interior light was on and even pushing the button it would not shut off. Then eventually after I parked up two hours later when I got back to me car it was off.

UPDATE: LH passenger door first try and got results ! Unplugged the actuator and locked and no beep this is positive I suppose. I inspected the wiring and it seems like it's in pretty good condition and that no water has made it that far into the door. Am I looking at a replacement actuator for that side or should I test with a multimeter one of the circuits. If so how should I go about this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/04/235.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/04/236.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/04/237.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/04/238.jpg

if no misslock with that latch unplugged replace it...simple as that;) but if you want to check measure resistance across the purple/white and black wires cos there's where the closed circuit to ground should be which triggers the misslock... if you are confident that nobody forces that door to steel something and the latch closes well you can simply just cut the purple/white wire anmd that's it.... just that particular door will be uncovered by the alarm

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

if no misslock with that latch unplugged replace it...simple as that;) but if you want to check measure resistance across the purple/white and black wires cos there's where the closed circuit to ground should be which triggers the misslock... if you are confident that nobody forces that door to steel something and the latch closes well you can simply just cut the purple/white wire anmd that's it.... just that particular door will be uncovered by the alarm

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So just to confirm I should replace my lhf door latch actuator and that should do the trick ?