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If that is the 1 that you disconnected and no misslock beep happened then yes, replace it. It is the latch that plays up. It may pay to check the others too though, ie replug that 1 and then test the others just to be sure.
cheers Scott
I'm no sparky so this may be a dumb question, but if a wire was broken could that be causing the problem, not the actuator? I ask because this happened to my driver's side rear door. The actuator was replaced and it still didn't lock. Turned out to be the wire in the grommet in the door having been crushed. Lot cheaper to fix a wire than to replace an actuator. Just a thought.
UPDATE: Today I successfully finished a double door lock actuator install and could not be happier.
The door frame was a little stubborn and the power windows but in the end it is all in working order. The key learnings I can take for both the driver door and passenger door are as follows.
1. Be patient when removing the actuator itself as it is very challenging to get out and place back in.
2. Lift the door frame higher than the inner brace on the door it helps you slide the actuator straight in
3. Don't do the latch side t40 torx bolt up too tight as it can create too much friction with the electronic Windows.
The guide I used I printed out from
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...uators.156079/
Lastly I would like to thank everyone who helped allong the way as it all started with my mislock diagnosis. Special mention goes to sierrafery you are a wizard.
Wellcome and well done, i'm glad it's sorted:cool:
3. Don't do the latch side t40 torx bolt up too tight as it can create too much friction with the electronic Windows.
Make sure you have the correct one in here as it is shorter than the others so that you can tighten it properly
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app