Reply With QuoteLow km second hand from Outback1 at Rochester?
Certainly cheaper way to go - replace the half shafts with everything attached...
Cheers
Pete
Master
G'day all,
I need some advice please on what to do next for my 2003 TD5.
The grinding noise I was hearing turned out to be a a stuffed front hub/bearing. It turned out to be almost a grand to replace (Timken brand), ouch (I wish I had the torque wrench for the axle nut to do myself as it is not complicated at all)!!!
The car has close to 320000KMs on the odometer (the other front one was replaced almost 2 years ago). I am thinking of being proactive and procuring/installing the two rear hub assemblies in advance to try to make it a more cost effective option (and possibly having to deal with the issue in the middle of nowhere) rather than just being faced with a broken bearing again, have a look at the listing here as an example: Land Rover Discovery Rear Wheel Hubs Bearings Assembly Sensor TAY100050 SET 2 | eBay
Wizard
Low km second hand from Outback1 at Rochester?
Certainly cheaper way to go - replace the half shafts with everything attached...
Cheers
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
The problem with some of the non branded hubs are that they seem to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring. This determines what speeds the ECUs see for your speedo reading and for the ABS system. This can result in the ABS activating at the wrong times,and the TC not working properly and a wrong speedo reading to boot. Just some thing to be aware of with the cheaper stuff.
Master
Hello rstevensen
You can get a cheap 3/4 breaker bar through Trade Tools, around $85 at the moment.
I got my 3/4 torque wrench from the cheap chinese tool warehouse for around $35(the handle is a bit short, you just need a piece of pipe to get good use out of it).
Where it says to use loctite 640 in the Rave maunual, you can use loctite 620. The main differences between them is a matter of a few degrees centigrade and that the 620 is not military spec. The other thing is the cost of it is far less than the 640.
See Roverlord for spare parts, you will get good gear at cheap prices. Mario doesn't supply cheap chinese parts that will fail just when you need them the most.
Cheers,
Jason
ChatterBox
Havent done a bearing/hub assembly on a D2 for while.... but I'm sure they were only round $300 - $400 .... (dont quote me on that).
*Yes from memory, there are different ring counts (again only going by memory), but I'm sure ive been supplied something wrong in the past.
*Just a note on using a torque wrench...
Unless I'm reading/understanding something wrong, was there a mention of a cheap torque wrench being too short and using a bit of pipe on the end?
A torque wrench is ment to be a precision instrument, putting pipe on the end is a very wrong thing to do, it negates any reading/setting you are trying to get. Also a cheap torque wrench will often give a different torque set everytime you use it, You might as well save the what $30?? and just use a breaker bar (and that bit of pipe) and loctite it.
Regards
Daz
A 3/4 drive T/Wrench for $35????!!!!! I would be wary of using it as reo in cement foundations for a bird cage!
Master
Oh come on. It's the old type where the arm has a bit of flex in it with a needle pointing at a guage......Highly accurate!!!!!!
Some people have just got no faith in the good quality of of Chinese engineering. Look at the quality of the alternative parts market. There is nothing wrong with changing a part 3 times at a 1/4 of the cost, you still save money
Just curious. If I got mine for $35 and prices go up to $1800+. At what price does a torque wrench become accurate??
Cheers,
Jason
ChatterBox
Well its more who made it and what certification comes with it, rather than a price range...Originally Posted by Jason789
While I'm not particularly suggesting owners buy tools as what a professional would use, though keep in mind good quality tools will last you a lifetime, and likely your childrens lifetime...
Here is a pic of my torque wrenches, from front to back;
*Snap-on 3/8 drive digital, round $700.
*Snap-on 1/2 drive digital, round $700 (price now is round $900).
*Britool 1/2 drive, round $300
*Stahwille 1/2 drive, round $1200.
*Stahwille 3/4 drive, long reach, high limit 650NM, round $2000.
*Snap-on dial torque wrench (far left), price dont know, its older than me.
*The group at the back are all pretty old and have been collected over the years for different purposes.
I basically only use the Snap-on digital ones now as they are are more accurate to use. The older "click" style, by the time your brain has responded to the "click" you have already gone past your desired torque setting by as much as 10 - 15NM. A Digital one has a LED bar graph, audible beep, vibration through handle, all adding to a "brain response time" that takes accuracy down to a margin of 0.1NM, which I find very very cool. The digital ones also do angles for torque to turn.
IMHO...If you are doing it for a living consider nothing but the Snap-on digital torque wrenches, in fact all the Snap-on range as their service, support, warranty is second to none. If its a hobby, you like to do your own stuff etc, look at the Britool range or tools, while its owned by Stanley now and I think its got a name change, the quality of the tools still seems to be there. if you prefer Japanese quality, then there is nothing better than Koken Tools.
Regards
Daz
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