Thread: Head off TD5

Plastic dowels - replace with steel.

For mine, I took the head to a reputable reconditioner and had an assessment made of its condition. After his advice, we had new valves and guides and the seats cut. Your experience may be different.

Good luck with the job and investigate the search facility on this site to get a feeling for the depth of knowledge and experience brought by people doing the work... it will help prevent reinvention of the wheel!

Cheers
Pete

It's up to you really.
Some do the valves while the head is off.
Most, particularly when the gasket change is due solely to the plastic dowels, give it a clean and refit.

Check for warpage , usually its had an overheat or two by the time it gets to that stage , if it needs a light reface which is worthwhile then you'll have to remove the cam carrier , you can then fill the ports with petrol to check for valve leakage . I replace the valve stem seals but usually they are fine , but it also gives a chance to check the guides. Modify the exhaust manifold while its off as well as replace oil cooler hose ( beneath turbo and replace the fuel cooler o rings if your going to keep the car

also check water pump for leakage out of weep hole check for leaks around filter housings easy to do the seals and o rings with the head off,

I'm about to drop my head and exhaust manifold off at the local head mob. Do I have to buy an oversized gasket to match. Also I searched this forum regarding the exhaust manifold mod. It seems that there's a few versions, not sure which is the best idea. 1 is to up size all studs to 10mm, another says to drill out the #'s 1 and 5 stud holes to allow for expansion and another says to grind the webbing from between each port.

You should match the new head gasket to the one you have removed. They are identified by the number of holes on the passenger side front of the gasket i.e.; 1 hole ; 2 holes or 3 holes. which designate the thickness required re the piston height versus the face of the block of your particular engine. As for manifold treatment I'll let others comment on that.
Nick

Dave, here's a non-exhaustive parts list that could help:

LDI100030 Cam plug front
ERR7094 Cam cover gasket if eng no <1A else LVP000020
ERR5369 Cam plug rear
ERR7266 Insulator sealing x 13 (afair)
YLL500040 Dowel x 2 check they are steel
LCM100170 Plug - water drain if necessary. Reseal it if you can move it!!
Check for the number of holes on the pass side front of head gasket near chain guide and get a replacement the same.
AMR6103 Harness - fuel injector
LKG100470 Exhaust manifold gasket
ERR7072 Inlet manifold gasket if eng no <1A else LKJ000010
ERR7220 Gasket oil cooler adaptor
LJR100000 Gasket oil drain x 2
LVH100230 Gasket oil filter housing
ERR7098 O ring x 3
LVJ000010 Gasket coolant outlet elbow
ERR7097 Coolant elbow
PFQ10001L Coolant pump D rings kit
ESR3737 Gasket turbo to downpipe

Quality head bolt set.

3Bond black or grey sealant.

Little tube of instant glue to ensure cam cover gasket stays in place when installing the cover.

This was the kit of bits we used for the last td5 we did.
We specified Victor Reinz laminated head gasket, a put a very thin mist of Hylomar both sides when installing onto spotless block and head surfaces.

The usual filters - oil and air - and good 5W40 diesel oil of your choice. We use Penrite.

Good fixing.

Pete

Be careful using the genuine steel dowels on early heads (1999-2000?) as they are supposedly too long and will crack the head. Later heads originally fitted with plastic can take the steel dowels introduced soon after, part way through MY03. From memory early heads can be identified by the lack of an external fuel return pipe from the front right of the head back to the regulator as the early head's return line is internal, but perhaps there was another version prior to the external return pipe.

I used the sections of the shank of an 8mm drill bit cut shorter than new plastic dowels to ensure they weren't too long.