Would you recover from these?

A mechanic in England, Gemm I think, has made a front recovery point for a D2 with a tractor loop but I can't find any photos. He brings the loop out in the centre of the mesh where the other recovery points above exit, but in the middle, so a single recovery point. I assume he attaches it to both chassis rails behind the crush cans somewhere. Its hellishly strong and a really simple solution apparently. Anyone seen this done? The photo below is just a tractor loop from the web but you get the idea.

Whatever philcos points are made of are secured by the same 12mm HT bolts my arb bar is secured with. If they're strong enough to have held up to me being snatched out of muddy table drains, flat towed 20km, winched up rockfaces, etc I'm sure they're strong enough for most things.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

I think we might need our own version of Myth Busters, where we test Land Rovers and recovery gear to destruction. Sound like fun? :o

"Whatever philcos points are made of are secured by the same 12mm HT bolts my arb bar is secured with."

They seem to be made of either 19mm (ARB & Philco) or 16mm (APT) laser cut steel. APT's are 16mm 350 MPa laser cut steelplate. And he uses Super duty high tensile 4 x M12 grade 8.8ZP bolts, high tensile ZP washers and nylocs. So you'd think it would be ok and they are a well proven design, being attached this way. Just need to extend it out and thru the grill a bit and it might be ok?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Islandnomad

"Whatever philcos points are made of are secured by the same 12mm HT bolts my arb bar is secured with."

They seem to be made of either 19mm (ARB & Philco) or 16mm (APT) laser cut steel. APT's are 16mm 350 MPa laser cut steelplate. And he uses Super duty high tensile 4 x M12 grade 8.8ZP bolts, high tensile ZP washers and nylocs. So you'd think it would be ok and they are a well proven design, being attached this way. Just need to extend it out and thru the grill a bit and it might be ok?

---

If you asked Ben at APT you'd likely find he would do that for you...

"If you asked Ben at APT you'd likely find he would do that for you..."

Yes I've spoken to him about his current style for the D2 nearly bought one then submerged the car, nice guy, close to me too once I get on the mainland. I'll contact him. Reckon that little bit extra cantilever in 19mm or 16mm plate should be ok. Doesn't fix Tank's shackle orientation issue but you can't have everything....maybe if you could twist it, too thick probably...would be better with the shackle pin verticle I think...anyway?

I'm also putting a newish OEM nudgebar in an adjacent position now, which may be interesting. Maybe I'll get the plate above made with the same bolt setout as the LR NudgeBar Mounting Bracket and sandwich it all together?

Hey, I got it all sussed with mine, fiendishly simple when ya think about it :D 2 steps, 1 dont get stuck to start with, B) If I can get stuck I dont need to go there...... See? Simple

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Islandnomad

This is an original Landrover STC50025 stainless steel nudge bar. It has 2 recovery points built into it. Would you use these for a recovery?

---

The ones in the pictures look to me like tie down, not recovery, points.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by schuy1

Hey, I got it all sussed with mine, fiendishly simple when ya think about it :D 2 steps, 1 dont get stuck to start with, B) If I can get stuck I dont need to go there...... See? Simple

---

Toyota's and nissans need help too you know...

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Toyota's and nissans need help too you know...

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

---

:D I think part 2 of my statement applies there...... I can still do the good Samaritan act and 9.9 times outa 10 be well within the parameters of my statement..........:p