Reply With QuoteI have the same racing electronics MAP piggyback module ,, on setting #1 ( same as if its not there ) 15psi surge , on #3 no surge at 19psi ,, on #9 so much quicker and no surge at all ,,,
Master
with a simple plug in unit
I have had mine installed for over 2 years with out any ill side affects
1st vid trying to run 20 psi without the module lucky to hit 17 psi without surge
2nd vid now with module plugged in
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vngx0FKe-w[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sb5vSyzIVVg[/ame]
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I have the same racing electronics MAP piggyback module ,, on setting #1 ( same as if its not there ) 15psi surge , on #3 no surge at 19psi ,, on #9 so much quicker and no surge at all ,,,
YarnMaster
SupporterTd5 Turbo Booster Module
IRB Developments
BAS also do one.
Master
What does the blue boost controller do? I thought it would give the same results as winding in/out the wastegate arm?
Master
Originally Posted by singlecell
the blue boost controller is a boost controller
most internal waste gates produce boost spikes as the size the gate is small
so some times shortening the rod doesn't allow the waste gate to open fully (ie the flap inside the turbo )
there are many types of boost controllers out there ...this one was designed to run inside the cab so you could adjust boost on the fly
its a personal preference where you install ,,,I found a curtain pressure on road and a curtain pressure off road use
every increment clockwise on the my boost controller = 2 psi gain
YarnMaster
SupporterYou will find these frequently on modified Japanese petrol turbo charged vehicles. Basically the vacuum/boost line goes through it and the valve blocks off this somewhat to effect the pressure reading that the waste gate on the turbo receives. Adjusting the knob changes how much block occurs. Reducing the pressure to the waste gate causes it to stay closed longer resulting in the turbo charger spinning faster and more boost.
Personally, whilst I only played with the standard TD5 turbo for a short time before upgrading to a VNT I found adjusting the waste gate rod length to be very efficient, quick, easy and free. I did not note any of the negative effects that geordiepride notes above. Personally I would do this method prior to going to the expense and effort of a boost controller.
As for wanting to adjust/control the boost pressure I don't see the advantage. Why reduce the boost pressure for on or off road use?
Master
adjust waste gate arm does work but every engine and waste gate are never the same as for the VNT turbos the work different I have rebuilt a few
it was a personal preference by purchasing a 30 dollar boost controller ..the boost controller bleeds off air and tricks the waste gate the waste gate still opens at the correct pressure
another personal preference is fuel economy more boost means more fuel up to now I run 3 cars on mechanics wages
I found that a nice moderate boost level suits my driving style while driving on road and not to aggressive . when I go off road I up the boost a bit just to give me some extra whoomp
as for adjust waste gate arm length most people get that extra launch feeling.. I was turbo spiking from the day I purchased it... the guy before me had the way to much tension on the waste gate
here is a link its a basic read up
Technical Articles | Boost Spiking Explained | Turbosmart USA
YarnMaster
from my own experience the bolded stetement doesnt sound correct to me(provided it's about a comparison for the same throttle input) IMO if you trick the wastegate as to have lower boost rather than higher at the same TP input the consumption will be higher at lower boost so would be the EGT cos the ECU expects a certain boost at a certain TP input and air flow and if it gets lower it will increase fuelling to get to the expected level, higher boost at same throttle input is good(up to overboost limit off course)...also when i fitted the forge actuator i made some tests with the old valve and IMO the rod is not set as at 13 thread left factory setting to be at full travel shortening the rod as to increase the boost up to the overboost limit(around 10 threads left) should not affect the wastegate's travelthere are many types of boost controllers out there ...this one was designed to run inside the cab so you could adjust boost on the fly ...another personal preference is fuel economy more boost means more fuel up to now I run 3 cars on mechanics wages ...
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Master
agree 13 threads but every negative person is missing the point that when I purchased the car mine was wound up way to tight
as for fuel encomomy to make boost we need a few things one of those things is = more heat in the exhaust side of the turbo allows you to have more boost if you don't put the fuel in well then we wont have boost
so are you saying the MAP sensor doesn't need to be there and boost levels work off throttle position if so disconnect your map sensor and go for a drive regardless of where the peddle is you will have no power
if iam reading you right are you saying fuel consumption is the same at running 10 psi and running 20 psi
YarnMaster
No, i was trying to say something else, the MAP sensor's reading is used by the ECU's addaptive strategy for fuelling calculations and at a certain throttle demand, ambient pressure and air flow the ECU expects a certain MAP reading so if you reduce the boost it will increase fuelling to achieve that expected MAP that's why you get black smoke if there's a boost leak before the inlet, at the same TP input if you shorten the rod there will be more boost but not more fuel injected so not greater consumption and lower EGT, reducing boost artificially at the same TP input is exactly like when there's a boost leak so the EGT and consumption will grow.... it's like when you climb a long hill with the throttle fully depressed and the AAP drops so will drop the MAP and the ECU will give more fuel to maintain the MAP constant = altitude compensation, that's what you do if you reduce boost, the MAP will drop and the ECU will compensate with fuel so at the same driver demands higher MAP(boost) is better and there will not be higher consumption at all
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
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