Thread: option B install

Hi

I did option B last weekend. If you are just removing the SLS with the pump in situ you don't need to bleed the brakes.

It is a bit of a pain. Probably took me 2 hours all up, as the SLS bolts had a heap of thread lock on them and you can only get about 1/8th of a turn due to access, so it takes you a while to get them out.

but doing it that way, doesn't introduce any air into the system, so I didn't need to bleed the brakes.

Thanks clintooo but it needs to come of as I am replacing some o rings and e clips that I ordered from falcon works in America.

no probs. it will be easier to get it out at least

You'll have a hard time finding anyone to do plan b. Mechanics wince at the thought of the liability that goes with changing anything to do with the electronic side of brakes. Even though they'd only be making an electrical path more direct, and it is a tried and tested method, most of your average workshops won't touch it. I'm in victoria, and I've heard of one place that does it, but they charge about $800.00 just for the plan b install.

All that being said, if you can find the time, you don't need any special gear to power bleed the system. Just a couple of spanners. It is a little bit messy, but all you need to do is loosen the pipes on the abs pump one at a time while someone pumps the pedal inside. Then tighten and repeat, and then do the calipers as normal.

Clintooo is right about the thread locker as well. If you're removing the whole unit it shouldn't be a problem though.

Hope that helps, all need to do now is find the time and will - and that can be damn hard.

going back 6 years,, I did Option B around the first weekend I drove it home,
Bleeding was done by a twin wire cable and switch into the fuse box to get the ABS pump to operate,, still no concerns after 6 years,,,,

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Bleeding was done by a twin wire cable and switch into the fuse box to get the ABS pump to operate,,

I've seen this "method" with activating the ABS pump relay to bleed brakes mentioned before but IMO it's a false impression that it has anything to do with the tester managed power bleeding as the pressure will go only to the inlet valves circuit which is N/O and the N/C outlet valves will still be closed so nothing additional to the pedal bleeding as long as there's no command to open the outlet valves...it's like you'd try to inflate the air springs by bridgind the compressor relay without feeding the air supply valves to open

no doubt,,
but it works? and after 19 years of-- 3 disco's I'd have a fair idea if it didnt work,,

and please dont tell me I was lucky!! This is the Big Silver Lemon after all,,,

it may be the only thing that STILL works -- (after the first fault of course...)

I didnt say it doesnt work, what i mean is just that it has nothing to do with the tester bleeding cos it bleeds only the IV circuit between the modulator and calipers which is covered by pedal bleeding anyway