You will need to weld it back on I think looking at the pictures
Hi There,
Front drivers door, the catch / lever that stops the door flying open and bending the hinges. The part on the LH side of the picture below, the bit in the A piller is loose, very loose, like not connected to anything. How do I fix this, is it easily fixable or is this another one of those nightmare jobs.
Looking at this I am suspecting I have to take the door offand remove the panel behind the catch, or can I get the panel out without taking the door off. I just know this is going to be a doosy of a job.
Any assitance rendered gratefully accepted.
Cheers Marty
You will need to weld it back on I think looking at the pictures
have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
1996 D1 300TDI GONE
08 ford ranger c/c
WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
It happened to mine a few years ago. The repairer put a bolt above and below the strap. I'm not sure how it was done but suspect an interior panel was removed to fit the nuts to the ends of the bolts.
If this is the case, there is likely enough metal above and below the 'strap'.
I'd suggest drill a 3mm hole above where it mounts to the car and have a look. It might be possible to tap the inside material and Loctite some all thread into it, than tighten with a washer and nut to fix it to the frame of the car.
Of course it might be just as easy to take it to a welder, hold the door open and ask him to weld above it and hope it penetrates both whats inside and the frame of the car. If this worked it would take no time at all.
Mine has been welded twice (by two different body shops) and needs a 3rd go now. Looking for a better solution myself.
Urban Panzer wrote:
The only real way to gain proper access is to remove the door which is simple anyway....
Remove kick panel
Disconnect door loom
Remove 2 clips on top of hinge pins
feed loom and grommets through hole in A pillar
Remove checklink pin (knocks out upwards)
Lift door off carefully.
Then, use something to hold "pull" the check link bracket in position, drill one hole, then fit one rivet, then fit the next 2.
You can view the bracket with a mirror to make sure you hit it with the drill for the rivet inside the door shut.
The rivets go basically where the ?$&%! spot welds were.
The key is to keep the bracket against the pillar both while drilling and when pulling the rivets down otherwise it will just wobble and probably break the rivets over time
As with any holes, I touched them up with paint before fitting the rivets, and painted the rivets afterwards as well.
In total I used 3 x 4.6mm or 3/16" rivets.
No more door "crack" as it opens..
Picture below shows rivet locations.
Thanks to urban panzer
D2BC.co.uk • Login
I welded mine up by drilling a 8mm hole above and below and filling with mig wire.
Welded 2 years ago still in primer
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Is the door jam steel or alloy?
Thanks Northiam,
Rivets........ of course, thank you, I'll give that a shot.
Hi Crash,
Door jam is steel.
Cheers Marty
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