The wikipedia article implies that it does, but also says that it results in marginally better exhaust velocity.
Tom
I spent yesterday installing my straightened , dewebbed and 1200C ceramic coated exhaust manifold,replacing studs with Wurth studs and copper nuts as well as turning up the boost 3 turns and removing the EGR on my 2002 EU3 TD5 auto. I also placed a turbo blanket on the turbo.
This allowed me to fit the sensors of my previously bought Boost Gauge and EGT gauge.
I have a stock tune, and still have my cat. The EGT gauge is fitted on the "dimple" just in front of the turbo, with the probe about 3/4 of the way into the manifold. Ie gently push in until it touches then draw back say 5-6MM. ( is this correct?) It certainly is very responsive.
I have read numerous old posts about EGTs and set the EGT alarm at 700C.
Trouble is that in a couple of short trips I have done I have reached 700C on just brisk acceleration up to say 60KMH at about 18 -19PSI boost. The car is going really well and i am pleased so far.
I don't think the blanket would figure in this as it is after the gauge, but any thoughts on whether the ceramic coated manifold is holding in most of the heat and making the gauge read higher than otherwise.
The bloke who did the ceramic reckons he got to virtually 100% of the interior as well as the exterior.
So what should my EGT alarm be set at?
Regards Philip A
The wikipedia article implies that it does, but also says that it results in marginally better exhaust velocity.
Tom
1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold
yes, the ceramic coating increases the temperature in the exhaust by reducing the heat loss out of the manifold.
this keeps the exhaust gas at a higher temp leaving more energy to turn the turbine.
IT doesnt increase the temp inside the combustion chamber, but some people seem to think that the higher EGT temp from having the ceramic coating means the internal temps have risen.
It hasnt you;re just getting a truer reading of whats coming out than the rest of us. In theory this means you can hold a slightly higher EGT than someone without a ceramic coated manifold.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
^^ 100% correct, it is only due to the lack of temp transfer from gasses through the manifold. One of the reasons people wrap their tubular manifolds is to increase gasflow by maintaining the heat energy in the gasses longer.
'Thermodynamic Dave' has hit it on the head😊
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
IMO if you get rid of the CAT the EGT will drop a bit cos there will be less backpressure in the exhaust
if i was you i'd set the alarm to 800 without fear....i've ran about one year with mine with a generic remap chip which gave real guts to it without having and EGT gauge but after i fitted the gauge i was amazed to see up to 900 uphill and nothing happened to the engine/head in this time, since then i've got a proper remap, IMO the ECT is more dangerous if it stays above 105 for long than 800 EGT peaks so watch that carefully
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
I have an aftermarket remap, blanked off EGR to make it appear it is still there, removed CAT and centre muffler.
EURO 3 TD5 recently rebuilt with 020 oversize positions has done approx. 70,000Kms
I also have my probe mounted in the same spot in front of the turbo and frequently get to 800 degrees, but it flattens out at 800 like it does at 720 with a standard tune. Max I've had is about 920 pushing it real hard in the hot weather. My engine has had no side effects from it.
I'm running a standard turbo and exhaust manifold with not issues.
I could not find anywhere other than forum member opinion that 700 - 720 was the max temp. That is not to say it is wrong as it makes sense when compared to my findings running a standard tune.
However RAVE states under the turbo section that the turbo must be able to handle up to 1000 degrees C for a short time. So i figure a plateau of 800 degrees is fine.
Does that mean that the exhaust gas that reaches the turbo is hotter, so the turbo get hotter and the air that the turbo pumps gets hotter, so you either need a better intercooler or else the air getting to the intake is hotter?
If that is true, is it enough to make a difference?
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
short version,
Yes, true, No, it wont, but
longer version
it does transfer more heat to the turbo yes, but I would not have thought that it would have been sufficient to require additional intercooling on a stockish tune (other than more than a stockish tune needs better intercooling to deal with the extra fueling and the heat rise caused by the extra compressor loading) as the turbo has good airflow over the compressor housing, reasonable air flow over the cassette and a good oil excess to deal with the heat load from the turbine side of business.
For a given setup.
by preserving the heat (energy) reaching the turbo turbine side of businsesss you're not going to make more out of the turbo, you're just going to do it more efficiently. If you make something more efficient you can then make more out of it by piling more (fuel) into it until the losses are the same again. The problem with doing this is if you go far enough you then expose the next weak link which in the case of the TD5 will be the head, if not the manifold studs and gasket then in the head and its cooling ability.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Just a few more impressions.
The tip in and turbo lag are much better with the mods.
I don't know about absolute power as haven't done that yet ,as was a bit alarmed by the 700C.
It is obvious that the ceramic manifold has made quite a difference as I can also hear the turbo spooling which I couldn't before.
Oh and I think I have noticed that warm up seems slower without the EGR.
Next mods could be maybe a decat pipe and flowmaster muffler.
Regards Philip A
What i can say is that after fitting the turbo blanket the IAT was not higher at all only the boost rose faster so as long as the OP has a turbo blanket IMO the effect of the hotter turbine on the boosted air is completely neglectable.Does that mean that the exhaust gas that reaches the turbo is hotter, so the turbo get hotter and the air that the turbo pumps gets hotter, so you either need a better intercooler or else the air getting to the intake is hotter?
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
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