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Thread: Auto box woes (M & S Flashing)...

  1. #1
    poxxxy Guest

    Auto box woes (M & S Flashing)...

    Hi guys,

    So yesterday was an unfortunate day, I decided to praise the Discovery on how reliable it had been since we had it and no more than 5 minutes later... M & S flashing on the dash along with the D light on the stick flashing away.

    I am in the UK here and its a TD5.

    When going through the occasional puddle over the past few months there has been a couple of occasions its appeared and disappeared but yesterday was quite testing and its been just as persistently bad today. We decided that perhaps it "must be the xyz switch/gear position selector switch" but at the ridiculous prices they seem to be available for at the moment we are reluctant to buy blind and hope.

    Now we wrestled with the multiplug for a while yesterday but today we finally got the thing off and got to take a look inside, it was clean as a whistle which was disappointing. Then proceeded to strip the switch down and look for any signs of ingress but it was clean and no corrosion. Blasted with switch cleaner anyway and reassembled.

    Last night we thought after disturbing the multiplug slightly (moving it a couple of mm) we had rectified the issue. Went for a drive for around 15-20 minutes and it did not play up at all...

    This morning we got slightly down the road and approached a slight decline and there it was flashing away again. This time no matter what we do, the lights are flashing within seconds if not immediately of starting the engine. Moving the in car gear selector does not seem to help.

    Now after seeing the condition of the switch it appeared to be pretty fine. The loom (what we could see of it, all looked ok).

    Battery condition seems pretty damn good, voltage doesn't drop much at all. Maybe .2-.3v when the fuel pump is priming down to 12.3 from 12.5. When running 13.8v is there pretty quickly.

    Now we are a little stumped, of course a Hawkeye/Nanocom or something would be great... i've not attempted to plugin a generic ELM327 OBD reader to see if there is anything there.

    Just wondering what else we could be looking for here? The RAVE manual states a few things that cause the flashing and cruise control did seem to still work, although we haven't tested this since dismantling and reassembling the switch.

    Pulling our hair out at the minute so any pointers would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Must have been the day for it. Mine did the exact same thing yesterday! Mine happened on startup. Was also stuck in 3rd gear and thumped when reverse was selected. Lights went out after a few restarts and has been fine since. Now every time I start it I hold my breath expecting them to come back.

    I'm expecting XYZ switch on mine if it ever
    Comes back on. I haven't been near any water. Car has done 190k
    I'll Keep an eye on this thread though, good luck with sorting yours out!
    1986 Range Rover Hiline
    2004 D2 TD5

  3. #3
    poxxxy Guest
    That's how it started here unfortunately. I have a feeling I need to be tracing all kinds of wiring . Not sure if a hawkeye or nanocom actually supports diagnosing the tcm on the auto box? Its listed under P38 but thats another protocol entirely to buy on the things... I'm currently pulling my hair out trying to get SDD to install with my VCM II to try and get some useful information out of the thing.

  4. #4
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    The transmission loom on a D2 passes behind some bolts at the rear of the gearbox and has a steel ring holding it in place.

    When I had removed the console "floor" to add a diff lock to my 2002, I noticed that the bolt at the top LH corner of the transmission had worn the insulation on the wiring so added some convoluted tube.
    Really IMHO the only way to look at the loom is to remove the console floor by drilling out 14? rivets. A PITA but there you are.

    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    I have the same issue, and diagnosed it a while ago in this thread:http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...tch-issue.html. I am very sure that it is the harness over the transmission. I haven't gotten around to fix it yet, but the harness is stiff enough that if I just push on it from below, the exposed wire is no longer in contact with metal and I'm able to drive normally for weeks at a time. It's not a permanent solution but can get you by until you have time to do it properly.

    No diagnostic machine can tell you exactly what to replace or fix, but they can get you very close. Still need to check wires and connectors manually though.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I would also add checking for oil in the ecu loom as that has been known to throw a CAN bus error which causes the m&s lights to trigger.

    Cheers

    Steve

  7. #7
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    This can also be caused by low battery voltage
    have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
    MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
    MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
    1996 D1 300TDI GONE
    08 ford ranger c/c
    WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
    PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR

  8. #8
    poxxxy Guest
    Well guys, I hadn't seen these posts until now. But I think are sorted (after a long day). A guy on a facebook group that i'm a part of his first idea was harness rubbed through at the P clip on top of the transfer box... the heatshield was worn through on the edge of the box also and after exposing the wiring there we could not see any problem.

    We soon discovered we would have to drill out those rivets on top of the transfer box in order to gain access to other plugs on the loom which was a little daunting, its a shame we didn't have the CDL lever around or a means to quickly come up with a solenoid solution whilst it was off (before being riveted back down).

    Finally got the loom off and removed heatshielding and tape... was about to call it a day and then I saw the smallest black mark on the orange cable with a green trace... wiring was certainly exposed and any contact with frayed heatshield and touching the box could of certainly caused a short.

    I don't have the nanocom yet but I have a feeling it would tell me there was a solenoid short to ground or similar when it arrives tomorrow...

    We taped up the offending wire and set about securing the rest of the harness with tape and moving the heatshield around. Fitted back to the car and the lights have been out and seem to have stayed out. Behaving as it should...

    Thanks for the advice here, i've read through most of the potential causes and we now have gained a fair bit of knowledge about our disco now. My arms and hands need a rest after manoeuvring round in those spaces for a while. Fingers crossed those lights stay out tomorrow but for now i'll celebrate the little feeling of success!

    ""The gearbox solenoid valve block is connected to the EAT ECU as follows:
    z ECU pin C0193-5 on an OG wire to gearbox solenoid pin C0543-H. This provides an
    output to the pressure regulator solenoid valve."""

  9. #9
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    Looks like a great result.
    It can be a problem with the D2 that you have to dismantle half the bloody car to see the electrics.
    If you removed the shifter make sure that the dash agrees with the lights on the console. The cable usually falls back into place on the XYZ well.
    Regards Philip A

  10. #10
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    Just checking its not possible to see wiring without taking the tunnel apart??
    Mine seems be have fixed itself but I wouldn't mind checking the wiring if I can at least fumble round and get a bit of a look??
    1986 Range Rover Hiline
    2004 D2 TD5

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