What symptoms have you got?
Whatever is the problem rest assured that we are all here to help!☺
Jc
Yes, that's me today. Just had a bad experience with a LR service. I'll let you join the dots.
Can someone recommend a diesel mechanic in or near Canberra who is familiar with and can fix TD5 engines, and doesn't make you feel like ripped off afterwards?
Thanks.
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What symptoms have you got?
Whatever is the problem rest assured that we are all here to help!☺
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
What did you have done? And what was the price?
Try:
The Series Workshop: Series Workshop - Canberra Land Rover Mechanic
Johnny is working by himself, so you may not get immediate answer, but email seems to work.
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
rrturboD, thank so much for posting this; Also to candeniz for 'having a whinge'. Seriously.
My brother, a mate and I have had such bad and expensive experiences that I'd all but given up on my beloved D2a that I had planned to keep for a very long time - I've had it since 2010, it's still only approaching 170k and should have many years left in it yet. Alas, it's become pretty sad over the last year and I've been despondent about what to do. I do a lot of the small/medium stuff myself but need the advice of a pro and workshop assistance occasionally. AULRO is outstanding but sometimes a person to talk to (who knows their stuff) can save a lot of time.
Sad to say but I was about 3 weeks away from buying a LC200 as at least there are good workshops for those in Canberra.
But now there's a spring in my step at the prospect of finding decent healthcare for the D2!
Thanks again![]()
Try posting your problem here before you take the vehicle any where.
Let's know what you feel capable of and you might find the stealer isn't required as much as you might think.
There is so much information and help available on this forum it is unreal.
There may be someone in your vicinity that can assist in your case.
JIC, for anyone in the Adelaide Hills area my mate and I (both retired mechanics and Landy tragics) are prepared to give a Landy owner a hand, (my mate just doesn't know it yet).
Cheers and keep the chin up.
Mike
Hey Mike,
Thanks so much for the offer!
-Big Post- And a total hijack; although it feels like it's probably ok as it seems to have developed this way kinda naturally...
Well, it all started with a re-mapping effort a couple of years ago. It drove really well but ultimately overheated while towing up a long hill. I thought it was just the turbo and manifold that were affected.
I replaced the turbo with a new, genuine one, re-mapped back to std; while I had things apart I swapped out every single hose I could find in the engine bay - all genuine parts. I also put in a new water pump but I didn't swap out the o-ring that goes between the engine block and water pump carrier. Also had manifold re-machined and stress-relieved.
The car drove wonderfully again and then went to the Flinders Ranges, Lake Eyre, Uluru and across the Simpson. However, it did lose a tiny bit of coolant - about 100ml in 6 months. But it was irritating and seemed to be coming from the one piece of rubber I didn't swap out.
Coincidentally, the main fan bearing starting making some noise and when I realised I couldn't swap it out myself, I took it to the local specialist. I asked them to change that o-ring while they were at it.
I was told that the head was warped and that a new-and-improved head was available; I should swap it out. It was going to be around $8k all told but I love my truck and planned to keep it forever, so worth it.
The work was done and the truck drove wonderfully. Life moved on and I didn't have any expeditions planned so it dutifully hacked around town and did the odd local trip.
But I did notice that I was now hearing a sound that I can only assume is the spinning oil filter - sound that continues and slows after shut down. I also noticed the exact same coolant leak still occurring after some months.
I could have gone back and complained but in the meantime my brother and a mate had both been burned and I was very unimpressed with the shop. I didn't have the time to fight what were obviously a pack of less-than-reputable people. Nothing that I've heard from reputable sources has changed that opinion.
So what's wrong:
- I'm pretty sure they've f'd up the spinning filter - those bolts are easy to strip. I've not been game to even start investigating it.
 - There is oil seeping from nearly everywhere now - it used to be oil tight. I know, an oil-tight Landy - never happens!
 It looks like they didn't prep the gaskets for the cam-carrier. If they didn't do this right - what else is wrong?
- The fuel pressure regulator is leaking dieso. I'd changed it about 60k km before. I can't imagine it's actually stuffed, so I suspect a gasket was re-used. Maybe the gaskets around the head were re-used too? I could believe anything. Either way I've got to change out the regulator - I suppose I can clean out the EGR and intercooler again, probably worthwhile.
 - The transmission hi temp light has started flickering. It's completely random (wrt driving time/heat/load) so I suspect it's a dicky sender/connection - probably from all the oils and diesel sloshing around the engine bay.
 - I'm now getting a grinding/whirring noise from, I think, the front-left wheel. Could be a CV or maybe ball joints? There's also some shudder under braking after it's heated up - won't do it when it's cold. I've removed the wheels and given things a quick shake and a lever but turned up nothing. I'm not a guru though so it could be staring me in the face and I've just not seen it.
 - I dinged the back right wing going up the Monkey Gum track last Easter. Needs a small amount of panel work and a new rear bar. I'll trade up to a steel aftermarket one. But all the other issues have undermined my motivation to care: It'd look lovely again but be terribly mechanically.
 - And lastly I've also just discovered a clunk when the wheels are articulating. I've got all the tech bulletins and I think it's the problem referred to in No. 0044 KNOCK / CREAK FROM LEFT REAR OF VEHICLE.
 
My MO with the Disco has been to do what I can and then get the shop to do an inspection/tidy up anything amiss; or if it needs special tools/skills, I get the shop to do it. Without a shop I can trust I've just not felt able to do anything. And after the last big spend, I'm feeling a bit over it all. I couldn't take it off the road for ages to do big things myself and I don't have the time anyway. So it's leaking and whirring and clunking but it keeps going quite ok - I'm just topping things up from time to time. Really disappointing as prior to this I've spent a lot of time and $$ trying to keep it mechanically and cosmetically in great shape.
My plan of attack, now that two significant things have happened (Series Workshop; getting another car as a run about) is to basically start at the top and work down: leaks; CV/ball joints; Knock/creak; rear bar.
I'll certainly be using AULRO again as I hit issues
cheers!
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