Thread: Can't find it!

Was it working before?
Here is a diagram of the internals for the CDL.

http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/up...482005.jpg?818

I would suggest the CDL does not need to be replaced, as they are very robust.
My first point of inspection would be to check the cable sheath is secured correctly both ends then the engagement fork (21)which is essentially spring (18) activated once the selector has been activated ,

Check the detent (15-12-13)adjustment and if no joy pull the side cover to see the selector fork and spring.

...and "The Good Oil" https://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/...an-joints.html

Are you sure it's not working, you've actually checked by moving the wheels? It could be the indicator light not working, most likely electrical near the switch.

Double cardan is rebuildable, discovery2.co.uk has the instructions and part numbers. It's a bit of a 4 handed job for the cardan itself but doable. I think it was about $150 for all the parts about 5 years ago here in Adelaide.

Originally Posted by steve_a

Are you sure it's not working, you've actually checked by moving the wheels? It could be the indicator light not working, most likely electrical near the switch.

Double cardan is rebuildable, discovery2.co.uk has the instructions and part numbers. It's a bit of a 4 handed job for the cardan itself but doable. I think it was about $150 for all the parts about 5 years ago here in Adelaide.

About $157.00 today from the UK. Buggers charged me VAT so I want to get that refunded.

Hardy spicer sell heavy duty uni joints and the centre ball for double cardan joints in australia through bearing shops
John

Thanks STRANGY.

To me a new vehicle, unsure of its past.

Pulled out the front shaft, DC joint uni stuffed, hoped to be able to stay mobile by selecting 'diff lock' and have rear wheel drive only until I fixed the unis.

Did that and no drive, got the mate to shift the lever for me while I looked to see what was happening, all looked OK.

Disconnected the cable from the lever at the TC ensured it was not a cable adjustment but still no drive. No noises, no nothing, light on dash does come on.

Should I be able to drive with diff lock on and no front shaft, I think I could in my 1999 model.

I have not checked oil or anything else yet, I've had to do SLS bags, Fuel reg, radiator hoses and a lot of travelling. Just pulled the reco shaft out of the 99 that is still sitting here, will fit that in the AM.

A Woods shaft seems to get all the ticks but trying to save for a wedding it will be put off for a while, I will just O/H the one I have.

Any help on the drive with no front shaft would be helpful though.

Regards guys.

Mike

you should get drive, make sure the transfer case is not in neutral

Thanks DISCOREVY, should have been one of the first things I checked, but that was not it.

From underneath moving the lever by hand it feels funny, maybe a cir clip has come off or something simple like that.

Thanks

Mike

Originally Posted by nismine01

Thanks Disconnected the cable from the lever at the TC ensured it was not a cable adjustment but still no drive. No noises, no nothing, light on dash does come on.

That's interesting/odd. The light is lit not by the lever but by the actual dog clutch inside I believe (as you can have the lever in and no light until you drive a little, and have the lever out and light still on until it unbinds).

I'd hesitate to start to suggest that the centre diff has an issue as it's more likely to be something simple, after all it was able to provide drive to front and rear shared, which suggests that the internals are still together. If the cross shaft goes I don't think the diff holds together very well.
May take the rear shaft off and rotate unlocked, transfer neutral and see how smooth it feels and then locked also. If anything has broken I'd hope you could feel some graunching and play between from and rear output.