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Thread: Help with misfires

  1. #1
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    Help with misfires

    I've just got my Disco back off my mechanic, however it's still got a few issues and is feeling very sluggish... After it stalled recently I got the following codes:


    • Catalyst Damaging misfire multiple cylinders
    • Catalyst Damaging misfire cyl 3
    • Emission relevant misfire multiple cylinders
    • Emission relevant misfire cyl 3
    • Catalyst damaging misfire cyl 8
    • Emission relevant misfire cyl 8
    • Catalyst damaging misfire cyl 2

    Before it stalled it had been under load, and was definitely struggling. It basically got to the top of a hill and just died (Check engine light, Oil light, Battery light came on). I turned it off, turned it on and it started straight away.

    What's been replaced so far: (within the last 6 months)
    Plugs & Leads
    Coil pack
    MAF sensor
    Crank sensor

    After a fair bit of searching, I'm leaning towards O2 sensors, however my mechanic isn't convinced... Anyone had similar issues, or any ideas on how to resolve this?

  2. #2
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    Have you checked for air leaks?
    I seem to recall getting misfires on the old D2 V8 after some work as the vacuum hose for the brakes was leaking.
    I've also had the O2 sensors go and I'm pretty sure you actually get an O2 fault but perhaps it depends on how it fails. The thing of note is that once it goes open loop the O2 sensor was not an issue, IIRC about 1500 rpm was the switch over to open loop.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve_a View Post
    Have you checked for air leaks?
    I seem to recall getting misfires on the old D2 V8 after some work as the vacuum hose for the brakes was leaking.
    I'll have to ask about this.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve_a View Post
    I've also had the O2 sensors go and I'm pretty sure you actually get an O2 fault but perhaps it depends on how it fails. The thing of note is that once it goes open loop the O2 sensor was not an issue, IIRC about 1500 rpm was the switch over to open loop.
    I'm getting a choking feel through the pedals at all sorts of different RPMs, but mostly when I'm decelerating or sitting at a constant speed (It's worst at about 65-70kph)

  4. #4
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    What type of leads are you running? I use absolutely nothing but OEM resistor leads, other types are notorious for running erratically. Roverlord sold me the last two sets and they run very much better than what came off.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    What type of leads are you running? I use absolutely nothing but OEM resistor leads, other types are notorious for running erratically. Roverlord sold me the last two sets and they run very much better than what came off.
    I'd have to assume Bosch as everything else that's gone in has been Bosch.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by s7000 View Post
    I'd have to assume Bosch as everything else that's gone in has been Bosch.
    I'm not aware of any Bosch leads available for a THOR setup. Coil packs and plugs for sure but not leads. Also, Bosch plugs are now being made in Russia and I no longer recommend them for coil pack systems although they still work fine on distributor systems.

    https://au.bosch-automotive-shop.com..._keyNumber=50#

    Click the "engine" tag.

    Try some other plugs first, e.g. NGK, then call Roverlord and get some of his leads.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I'm not aware of any Bosch leads available for a THOR setup. Coil packs and plugs for sure but not leads. Also, Bosch plugs are now being made in Russia and I no longer recommend them for coil pack systems although they still work fine on distributor systems.

    https://au.bosch-automotive-shop.com..._keyNumber=50#

    Click the "engine" tag.

    Try some other plugs first, e.g. NGK, then call Roverlord and get some of his leads.
    Don't know the brand... But it's a 7mm wire...

    I'd hazard a guess it should be an 8mm, as per most of the discussions I've been reading.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by s7000 View Post
    Don't know the brand... But it's a 7mm wire...

    I'd hazard a guess it should be an 8mm, as per most of the discussions I've been reading.
    The thickness of the insulation is irrelevant. It's the conductive core of the lead that counts. Some of the most reliable OEM leads on other vehicles I've worked on are 5mm in diameter. Air is as good an insulator for magnetic fields as rubber, so spacing leads apart is more effective than thick rubber covering.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The thickness of the insulation is irrelevant. It's the conductive core of the lead that counts. Some of the most reliable OEM leads on other vehicles I've worked on are 5mm in diameter. Air is as good an insulator for magnetic fields as rubber, so spacing leads apart is more effective than thick rubber covering.
    In that case, I'll need to double check. They look like this though...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
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    The O2 sensors are like the MAF, they just dont suddenly die, the performance just deteriorates slowly over time. (unlike the crank sensor)
    unlike the MAF, the O2's are easy to judge electronically,
    just plug in an OBD2 wifi dongle, download the free torque app onto your phone and bingo,,
    Long Term Fuel Trims below double figures, same for STFT, and all four sensors semi- static,, maybe a touch of up and down on the STFT's and nearly even bank to bank.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

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