Thread: Disco 2 Brake pedal pump / Bleeding

Oh it stops alright, it just feels like puss.

I meet a guy last night who happened to have a Nanocom.
Connected it up and found that the the fault was to do with the modulator shuttle valves.
We cleared the faluts and the hand brake 'warning light' which was staying on the dash all the time has gone and only comes on when the hand brake is pulled up.


One thing fixed at least.


Now with the shuttle valves in the modulator, I'm going to do the wiring Mod 1st to see if the single is the problem and will try the different methods suggested of bleeding over the weekend.


Getting closer now

Soooo I finally fixed the longer than expected pedal on my D2.
Given I had I st bought It I thought, 'I'll change my pads all around to my 'brand' and at least I know that part the f th brakes are new.

1st caliper was stuck!!!!

I found on all the calipers the sliding pins were seized, the grease looked to have dried up 'likely to be original' and a bit of moisture over the years and all brake calipers were spread out. And not sliding with piston movement or heat and rotational run out.
Soak and then tapped of each sliding portion of each caliper and cleaned up, greased and reassembled with new pads and careful changed fluid and .......

Omg I almost did skids reversing out the driveway.
The pedal moves about 10mm and then bites. Sooo happy
Hope this will help some one with the same symptoms as I.

Always lube the pins on sliding brake calipers!!!!

Next job is dual battery, rear wheel bearings and seals ( noticed a slight weep on the drivers side) and inject seals, because I can at this stage.

Originally Posted by Bokeh

Soooo I finally fixed the longer than expected pedal on my D2.
Given I had I st bought It I thought, 'I'll change my pads all around to my 'brand' and at least I know that part the f th brakes are new.

1st caliper was stuck!!!!

I found on all the calipers the sliding pins were seized, the grease looked to have dried up 'likely to be original' and a bit of moisture over the years and all brake calipers were spread out. And not sliding with piston movement or heat and rotational run out.
Soak and then tapped of each sliding portion of each caliper and cleaned up, greased and reassembled with new pads and careful changed fluid and .......

Omg I almost did skids reversing out the driveway.
The pedal moves about 10mm and then bites. Sooo happy
Hope this will help some one with the same symptoms as I.

Always lube the pins on sliding brake calipers!!!!

Next job is dual battery, rear wheel bearings and seals ( noticed a slight weep on the drivers side) and inject seals, because I can at this stage.

So happy for you cobber - in December I put new rotors, pads and new caliper slide pins all around and I've still got the two stage pedal. What bleed method did you use?

Hey mate,


I used the gravity bleed method and flushed the system, took almost 2 litres until I got the new DOT 4 'blue' fluid coming out of each caliper.


Drove the car to work this morning and stocked about how much better it is.


hope that helps

See the third page point 12 of the attached document, strangely the wabco procedure is the other way around compared to what's in RAVE namely from longest to shortes circuit

Originally Posted by Bokeh

Soooo I finally fixed the longer than expected pedal on my D2.


1st caliper was stuck!!!!

I found on all the calipers the sliding pins were seized, the grease looked to have dried up 'likely to be original' and a bit of moisture over the years and all brake calipers were spread out. And not sliding with piston movement or heat and rotational run out.
Soak and then tapped of each sliding portion of each caliper and cleaned up, greased and reassembled with new pads and careful changed fluid and .......

Omg I almost did skids reversing out the driveway.
The pedal moves about 10mm and then bites. Sooo happy
Hope this will help some one with the same symptoms as I.

Always lube the pins on sliding brake calipers!!!!

Just had a yarn with an indie who said to check this. Nice to have it confirmed. So I guess I know what tomorrow brings....

Originally Posted by Tins

Just had a yarn with an indie who said to check this. Nice to have it confirmed. So I guess I know what tomorrow brings....

Years ago when fitting my braided brake lines I discovered that all callipers had dry rusty slide pins, and many had torn boots, and on one calliper a seized slide pin - it was like it was welded in 6 hours later it was out but the pin was only good for the bin. So I sourced new pins and boots from ROVERLORD (Mario & Heather) and after cleaning then reassembled all callipers with suspension bush silicone grease rather than mineral grease, and now many years on they are still freely sliding like when first done. From this experience I can recommend Silicone Grease for the job.