Thread: I now know why my brakes were pulsing and giving a shimmy

Solid discs and TRW pads. I have ordered cheap discs from a trusted source.

AFAIR , TRW took over Lucas and the pads are close to OEM. They sometimes market as TRW -Lucas and the calipers are Lucas branded.

The pads are marketed as having shorter braking distances, so are probably soft like OEM. Now I have brakes on the trailer the brakes get an easier time.
Traction control should work well also.
Regards Philip A

Does a softer pad compound mean the chances of overheating the pad is greater

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Does a softer pad compound mean the chances of overheating the pad is greater

I'm not sure thats a given. I'd be more looking at the pads temperature range - mind you, I'm not convinced that tells the full story either.

You pull up Ok Slunnie?

I've got some dba slots and EBC yellows ready to go in, they will be interesting - hopefully in a good way.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Does a softer pad compound mean the chances of overheating the pad is greater

very generally and only talking about stock brake stuff here nothing performance or bleeding edge.

Generally..

a soft compound brake pad will grip the rotor better needing less brake pressure for a given amount of friction, basically the same as a soft compound tyre compared to a hard one. The downside is that the pad wears away faster. The pad itself builds up heat faster than a harder compound pad but because of the lower pressure required on the pad for a given braking effect the maximum temperature reached by the pad and rotor is usually lower overall.

Really short version. Soft pads = more brake and longer rotor life at the cost of pad life and brake dust with more chance of brake fade through the pad heating up.

Harder pads require more pressure and generate more heat on the rotor although the pads heat up slower they tend to reach higher temps BUT they last longer and tend to brake more reliably for longer periods. They are more prone to glazing from light braking applications.


On average you might see 2-3 sets of hard pads to a single rotor (more likely if you have the rotors machined with each pad change) but soft pads will get you between 4 and 6 sets of pads to a rotor. Dont forget that when you change the pads you should be cleaning out the caliper slide pins and pistons as part of the change to get best effect and wear out of your brakes.


Were Im currently working I see about 1 set of rotors a fortnight where some boy racer has given his brakes a hard time and then sat there with his foot clamped on the brakes. The heat from the rotor is insulated by the pad and the caliper the rest of the rotor cools at a different rate and you get depressions in the rotor as well as cracking.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

very generally and only talking about stock brake stuff here nothing performance or bleeding edge.

Generally..

a soft compound brake pad will grip the rotor better needing less brake pressure for a given amount of friction, basically the same as a soft compound tyre compared to a hard one. The downside is that the pad wears away faster. The pad itself builds up heat faster than a harder compound pad but because of the lower pressure required on the pad for a given braking effect the maximum temperature reached by the pad and rotor is usually lower overall.

Really short version. Soft pads = more brake and longer rotor life at the cost of pad life and brake dust with more chance of brake fade through the pad heating up.

Harder pads require more pressure and generate more heat on the rotor although the pads heat up slower they tend to reach higher temps BUT they last longer and tend to brake more reliably for longer periods. They are more prone to glazing from light braking applications.


On average you might see 2-3 sets of hard pads to a single rotor (more likely if you have the rotors machined with each pad change) but soft pads will get you between 4 and 6 sets of pads to a rotor. Dont forget that when you change the pads you should be cleaning out the caliper slide pins and pistons as part of the change to get best effect and wear out of your brakes.


Were Im currently working I see about 1 set of rotors a fortnight where some boy racer has given his brakes a hard time and then sat there with his foot clamped on the brakes. The heat from the rotor is insulated by the pad and the caliper the rest of the rotor cools at a different rate and you get depressions in the rotor as well as cracking.

Then OP says he's putting in Solid Discs, it will be interesting to see if heat effects them also as Vented discs are to dissipate heat.

2 questions......

130 300 tdi cab chassis.Almost 3t.
I have EBC green pads in the rear and mintex in the front.

Would this be why my front locks up in the wet under heavy braking?.
Should you run the same pads front and rear ?.