Thread: D2 CDL Update

Yes I have done it .
You really have to remove the floor of the console which is held by about 14 rivets, and to do this you have to disconnect the T bar and remove the shift linkage to the XYZ which is pretty easy . There are a couple of You tube videos on the fitting. That is if the linkage is not fitted already. Check the wiring at the back of the console to the XYZ to see that it is not chafed.

To get the correct preload on the diff you have to/should? swap your front bearing into the Ashcroft case. You will of course need a new seal and some grey Permatex.

The nose of the lt230 should come out in one piece ( mine did) but the US bloke recommends that you remove the detent ball of the high low selector shaft ,as if it comes out the ball will fall and have to be fished out. This is a major PITA as there is zero room between the plug and the chassis.

Fit the diff lock switch before fitting the nose, and make sure the switch and detent plug are adjusted correctly before the nose is refitted. Ie AFAIR the detent should be three turns out or whatever enables the shaft to move freely and ditto the switch. I have a cheapo aftermarket switch on which the terminals broke off as I tried to push on the blade connectors. So I had to modify it with some solder then encase the terminals in Araldite.

If you find a heap of glitter in the sort of sump area of the nose that comes out then your diff shims are toast, and you must replace them. Luckily mine were perfect.

If you run into trouble PM me and I will try to help. There is a post from last year on this .
I rigged up a switch near the power windows which connects the diff lock switch to the BCM so that I have the option of ABS etc with the older D2 BCM . There is a wire in the loom already there.

Regards Philip A

Make sure you have the wiring for the CDL switch there while you are at it cos i've seen cases where it was missing from factory(albeit on facelifts), you must find two wires with spade connectors hanging there and if you bridge them you must see the CDL warning on dash with ignition on...if it's missing i'll tell you from where under the console to route new wires... no worries it's not complicated

Originally Posted by Notamungo

Hi All
I will be changing my 2002 D2 (TD5 Auto) LT230 front housing with an Ashcroft front housing CDL update kit. (I already have the SLABS, D2a actuator, sticker and inclination, just looking for the time........)

I am just wondering if there is anyone out there that has replaced the transfer front housing whilst in-situ (without removing the transfer case) or do I have to drop it onto the bench?

Thanks in advance

As a side issue, with a 2002 D2 Auto you will probably find that the CDL switch wires are not in the Transfer Case/ Auto Trans wiring harness which means the CDL engaged signal won't get to the BCU and SLABS ECUs unless you change out or modify that harness.

Originally Posted by gazk

As a side issue, with a 2002 D2 Auto you will probably find that the CDL switch wires are not in the Transfer Case/ Auto Trans wiring harness which means the CDL engaged signal won't get to the BCU and SLABS ECUs unless you change out or modify that harness.

Hmmm didn't consider that. Many thanks for the heads up, I will check the schematic and look into ( I don't expect to take it on for a few months)

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Make sure you have the wiring for the CDL switch there while you are at it cos i've seen cases where it was missing from factory(albeit on facelifts), you must find two wires with spade connectors hanging there and if you bridge them you must see the CDL warning on dash with ignition on...if it's missing i'll tell you from where under the console to route new wires... no worries it's not complicated

Hi Sierra

Thanks, I will hopefully have a ferret around over the weekend. Will update .

They are there in my 2002 TD5 Auto.
There is a connector at the rear of the console. The details AFAIR were supplied by SierraFery in the thread about my CDL.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Yes I have done it .
You really have to remove the floor of the console which is held by about 14 rivets, and to do this you have to disconnect the T bar and remove the shift linkage to the XYZ which is pretty easy . There are a couple of You tube videos on the fitting. That is if the linkage is not fitted already. Check the wiring at the back of the console to the XYZ to see that it is not chafed.

To get the correct preload on the diff you have to/should? swap your front bearing into the Ashcroft case. You will of course need a new seal and some grey Permatex.

The nose of the lt230 should come out in one piece ( mine did) but the US bloke recommends that you remove the detent ball of the high low selector shaft ,as if it comes out the ball will fall and have to be fished out. This is a major PITA as there is zero room between the plug and the chassis.

Fit the diff lock switch before fitting the nose, and make sure the switch and detent plug are adjusted correctly before the nose is refitted. Ie AFAIR the detent should be three turns out or whatever enables the shaft to move freely and ditto the switch. I have a cheapo aftermarket switch on which the terminals broke off as I tried to push on the blade connectors. So I had to modify it with some solder then encase the terminals in Araldite.

If you find a heap of glitter in the sort of sump area of the nose that comes out then your diff shims are toast, and you must replace them. Luckily mine were perfect.

If you run into trouble PM me and I will try to help. There is a post from last year on this .
I rigged up a switch near the power windows which connects the diff lock switch to the BCM so that I have the option of ABS etc with the older D2 BCM . There is a wire in the loom already there.

Regards Philip A

Thanks Phillip, that's a relief as I really didn't want to go down the long track (its been years since I did it last and my back isn't what it used to be).. Hopefully there's no glitter as sh'e been treated kind and only just clocked 120K but you never know what Ol' Murphy has in store. Will definitely PM when the time comes, thanks for the offer.