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Thread: SLS valve block relocation and compressor upgrade

  1. #11
    ScotchRocks Guest

    Update

    I scored a second hand compressor and valve block assembly For a good price, so just going to carry a spare. Strongly considering replacing springs (age unknown) and keeping the current ones as spares, will refurbish the air lines and possibly add a manual inflation valve assembly while I am at it 'just in case'

    Can't financially justify a super flash on board air system when the el cheapo portable compressor does the job.

    Maybe be if I ever wanted to put an air locker in the rear diff I would revisit...

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    The whole SLS system including the compressor and valve block is very reliable for normal touring use - as long as you extend the air breather hose from behind the rear tail light to inside the cabin away from dust, and don't submerge the whole compressor. Mine has never been touched in 300,000 km - only new airbags as that's it. For those who tow a lot maybe it would be working harder though.

    It is easily serviced with the new compressor seal available on eBay from bagpipeandy.

    So unless you're into lots of wading, I think you're trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

    Better to keep the rear bin for extra storage if you can, and put an ARB compressor under the front drivers seat for your tyres.

    And I think a good battery setup is the starter battery moved to the firewall position and a 120-130AH deep cycle where the starter battery was.
    bagpipingandy.
    ​JayTee

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  3. #13
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    [QUOTE=ScotchRocks;2683571]
    Hey,
    Any tips on the manual inflation assembly what are you using??
    Shut off valve inline with tee piece to schrader valve??
    Going to local pneumatic supplier this week and seeing what parts I can get??

    Cheers Lemo

    If the compressor fails you need to do both sides remember--
    as long as theres a sharp set of side cutters, joiners, some tubing and two shraders in your tool kit, you're set.
    I just found it easier to add some hose with the joiners as normal running gear,, other may have more original length hose, LR were pretty stingy with mine.
    you will need around 60-70psi in the bags
    maybe some tape to block the dust ?

  4. #14
    Join Date
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    I'm with Simon. The SLS system is better left as is positioned and maybe extend the inlet filter incab as suggested. Fixing a custom system when remote will be way harder than just getting a std part and fitting it. In 8.5yrs ... I fitted new airsprings not long after purchase and I replaced 1x them during a trip a few weeks back. I did a bagpipingandy 2yrs ago when we bought the kamper as its 200kg odd ball weight & fitted a new inlet filter.

    SLS is brilliant !

    Car is 13yrs old. I reckon that's reliable ! It's done a little "sensible" wading during my time without any adverse effects.

    I use the Arb in a box compressor. Plug into the rear Anderson and hose reaches all 6 tyres easily.
    Onboard air can't be taken to another vehicle/application.

    I'd leave the SLS as is
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

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  5. #15
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    2691.JPG 2681.JPG
    Okay here is what I done,
    1. The existing valve block is still in use in the same place.
    2. The problem is the dump/exhaust valve which is part of the compressor,
    3. You need to modify the compressor so you can still use the dump valve .
    4. The new compressor is mounted in the rear but can be mounted elsewere.

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