Thread: A few jobs I have backed up to do

Transfer Case

It is leaking via hand brake and the side plate.

Thought I would replace the output seal and bearing, brake shoes and brake spring kit.
I was going to buy:
1. Output Seal (genuine)
2. Bearing (undecided on brand)
3. Felt washer
4. Big Nut
5. Replace other 4 drive shaft bolts (as they have been off before)
6. Spring kit
7. Brake shoes (already have)
8. Gasket goo for the side plate (is there a seal for that)
9. do I need to get the adjuster rebuild kit?

I replaced the goose neck hose as it was rubbing, but the pump is leaking in the middle.

I was going to buy
1. Pump (not sure what brand to get can I get by without the exorbitant amount LR want)
2. Gaskets required?? (I think there is one for where the goose neck attaches, but is there onw on the back side).

Can I connect the goose neck hose to the new pump on the bench and install it as one piece (it was a PIA getting that hose on last time)

The housing is weeping slightly at the hose connection, so I suspect it is the housing that is starting to corrode and it’s lost its seal to the hose. I replaced the top elbow last year as it had done the same. But thought I would do it all while I’m there for piece of mind.

I have the case already. So will buy:
1. Pump (not sure what brand)
2. O-ring kit (I think it is just the 3 o rings needed)
3. Hose from pump to metal pipe.
4. Gasket for the bottom of the rotor filter drain pipe. (do I need to remove the hose from the rotor housing too and thus replace that gasket)

Removal and reinstallation I was thinking would be as follows

1. I thought I would remove the oil filter rotor housing (I need to helicoil the front side hole as I have had to use a nut on the bottom of it) so I figure it will be easier to do this on the bench)
2. Remove the pipe to intercooler from turbo.
3. Undo AC compressor to make some room
4. Remove water pump housing
5. Do the engine mount then.

I figured that would give me the best access. Or should I do the removal in a different order?

Drivers side is leaking on the back plate. I’ll pull the disc off tomorrow and work out if it is the hub or the o-ring. Where does the oil leak from the hub? Or should I just replace the hub now? And do I do the other side or wait for it to go.

I guess depends on whether I go land rover or aftermarket brand?

Idler pully, tensioner and belt will be done at that point too.

I’m thinking of doing the harmonic balancer and seal while I have most of it apart. But I guess that is another $500 or so for the HB.

Rear donut and front propshaft were replaced at 150K (although front shaft with LR original).

EGR, provent, EGT and Boost gauges have been done too.

Any thing else people think I should do while I’m there.

The sump gasket is weeping slightly, but I'm not sure if there is any benefit in doing that at the same time? However, fixing that will then eliminate all of my oil leaks (i hope) so it is tempting.

Remainder of hoses,
Some things to consider (before the trip/s)
Radiator/Thermostat? Viscous Fan? Fuel Cooler/Fuel Pump Regulator? Oil Cooler? Engine & Trans Mounts, MAF, Belts, Shock Absorbers? Rear Drive Coupling? Key Batteries? Idler Bearing and Battery/ies - just for starters.
I'm assuming you have recently changed coolant and brake fluids, and already have a low coolant alarm and/or Nanocom.

yes, I have thermostat and balance of water hoses to fit, which I will do. Just bought an engine watchdog, which Im yet to fit. I have a nanocom too.

I recently replaced key battery and bought one of those flip key fobs, which I quite like. But batteries is something you don't think about.

I didnt think of viscous and radiator. Might be a job for later on.

FPR too, was something I was thinking of doing anyway (if only they werent $3-400 it would make it easier as a preventative). is the fuel and oil cooler something that does tend to fail?

shocks I'll do next year before the trip and then I'll have a spare. I also just bought set of helper airbags so they will go in the rear. 2nd battery is installed in the back too.

If you do the sump, check that pesky oil pump bolt so you KNOW that YOU were the one that did it.