Thread: Ball joint replacement

settle Ian,,
these things run with leaks like Bolt runs with a tailwind,,

You need to make sure exactly whats leaking before any repairs are sourced,,

there have been a few TC leak posts recently,,,

do your research on here, may save yourself a few bucks

What jobs have you tackled by yourself on you truck and how well equipped is your shed.

I have just done balljoints on mine and bought a BJ press to do it around $180 for the full kit [smaller kits available]but still had to make adaptors to do the job.
You might be able to borrow a press from a local forum member for a carton down there.
Must have decent car stands, besser blocks won't cut it also a couple of decent hammers, the rest can be done with hand tools for the balljoints.

I would not consider pulling the TC without a floor jack [a good one to] with a made up cradle unless you have a strong mate, 2 more car stands too.
A few TC leaks can be done while bolted in, you need to wash it to see what's leaking.

Definitely try the ball joints yourself
The hardest part is separating the ball joint from the control arm
There are several different tools you can use to do this, mostly inexpensive, check YouTube for a tutorial
On ball joint removal
TC is another story
Unless you have experience with them I would get it done by others. $1000 in labour is high though
Good luck

As said, if you try DIY and buy the tools, yes they are a mongrel to do.
Here's a good vid to show what it's about.

Originally Posted by igould

.... $200 in parts, and $1200 in labour. I'm guessing from this that the ball joints are a BIG job, and therefore probably beyond my average mechanical skills.
Is this a difficult job?

Also, I've got leaks from the transfer case. Similar situation of $160 in parts, but nearly $1000 in labour. .....

If you don't have the tools or space to work on the car, there are places around that you can hire a workshop(fully kitted out), with all manner of tools for the job.
Not knowing where in Melb you are, I know of one such workshop rental place in Williamstown. Multiple hoist types available, transmission jacks presses .. etc., etc.

If your bill is looking into the multi thousands just for the labour, I'd be inclined to get a recoed transfer case(or a cheap S/H one and fix it yourself as time permits, once the T/C is done or ready, also have all the parts you need to replace, and with the facilities at this workshop you'd be in and out in a matter of a few short hours.
The other thing to keep in mind, is that while you have the car on a hoist .. it kinds makes sense to service all other undercar items .. diffs trans .. etc.

Last time I checked this place in Willy rates were $45 an hour for full use of the place.
If you get stuck and can't move the car, his storage rates weren't too exhorbitant(something like $40 per day maybe. . can't remember).

I don't know of any other places that offer shop services in this manner, but @ $45/hr and considering all the stuff they have available ... seems pretty good value.

Thanks for the feedback. I reckon after watching that video that I could tackle the ball joints. Thanks Roverlord. I might be ordering some parts from you also soon.

Are there any kits that fit the Disco ball joints without modifying or fabricating parts?

I've got a mate with a 22 car garage with a hoist on his property nearby. Might have to hit him up to make use of it.

Ian

Originally Posted by whitey56

I would not consider pulling the TC without a floor jack [a good one to] with a made up cradle unless you have a strong mate, 2 more car stands too.

X2. It's pretty easy to damage the seal if you try ( with a strong mate! ) to just lift it. It isn't really that difficult though if you've had some experience. $1000 is a bit steep IMO. Even at $125 an hour that is 8 hours. For a workshop with power tools and a hoist it would take half that.

[QUOTE=johntins;2682326]X2. It's pretty easy to damage the seal if you try ( with a strong mate! ) to just lift it.

It is good practice to use longer bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins to reduce the chance of damage when installing gearboxes, i even use them to install the sump,

At 400ks replace the axle seals also, when i did my BJ.s at 270ks i repacked the CV's and replaced the boots [nothing wrong with old boots] and replaced the axle seals just as a preventative measure.

Your mates hoist would be ideal as the front axle needs to hang to use the BJ press easily, i had to move my stands from diff to chassis when i struck trouble using the press.
Good luck with it, the old BJ's will fight you all the way coming out just grab a bigger hammer.