Thread: TD5 fan hub bearing problem

I have used a centre punch to make a few "Dots" on the housing so that the outer race will have a better purchase on flogged out wheel hubs as an emergency fix.
When the centre punch marks the metal there is a small raised area created (Much like a bomb crater) and it is these raised areas that "Tighten" up the fit.
I am not sure how well this would work in this situation But I have travelled a couple of thousand K's towing a boat trailer fixed like this.

yeah, of course!
strange how some things make sense only after you've been made aware of them.

funny enough I used a centre punch to move the circlip to a more amenable location to allow easier placement with the circlip pliers .. so had the damned thing in my hand.

brother reckoned that on his 40min drive home on (mainly) freeway, the engine definitely felt smoother than it used too at it's usual 2K RPM cruise (so I'm hoping that the silicon has held for now).

But will definitely keep that method in mind if it starts to loosen up in the future.


On a side note tho, makes you laugh at what some folks do when they service, fix, repair, or attempt to do stuff on their cars:
Brother only got the D2 in Jan this year.
Had spongy brakes from the get go, and was always something we were going to look into.
He bought new front discs and pads all round, and as I have a spare parts D2, I rebuilt the front calipers off that, the idea being for him to have 'as new brakes' as possible.
Been planning all this for a couple of weeks now, but you can't plan for the (previous) idiot factor.

Some previous idiot had 'done' the brakes real good on this D2 tho, the security screw for the discs was half chopped out .. probably rusted in hard and they couldn't remove it, so they just chopped the head off it and just left the threaded diks on the hub.
Of course we couldn't get them off either, so had to carefully grind off what we could(again just to get him on the road again).
I've STRONGLY recommended to him to source a pair of new front hubs so we can sort it out properly, when the pads need replacing next time around.
If we had the time, I'd have taken the hubs off the spares car.... but 'thems the breaks' as the saying goes.

anyhow, thanks for the tip trout .. that's the kind'a thing that makes this site so brilliant

I had this situation arise while on a trip years ago.
It was fixed with out removing the timing case.
A 90deg adaptor was used on the drill to gain access.
TD5 fan idler bearing spining in housing. Fixed.

I've done a few. Housing can be taken off without removing the head. You need to remove the sump. The hardest part is removing the stud out of the housing that goes through the head. When I remove the stud I cut a slot in it to screw back in with a screwdriver. I use loctite 515 to seal the housing to the block and the bottom of the head gasket.
I get a bloke at work to machine out the housing and fit a steel bush in it.
Bearing retainer is a must when replacing this bearing. All the ones I've seen spun have had the bearing replaced.

if ya get it off take it somehwere and get them to put some dobs weld on it then file them out to fit
anther option could be to remove the bearing get a blow tourch heat it up as hot as you dare then put a wet rag around it the shock cooling should make it shrink and make the bearing nice and tight again,
thread locker wouldent of worked very well as that works against pressure but their bearing retainer would of worked fine.

anther option could be to drill and tap a hole where the bearing sits and put a bolt in there with a lock nut to stop it from floging around

Same here, used the centre punch method and worked a treat!
Was going to use this stuff but couldn't get any on a Sunday and needed car on the road
http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_H...=8802627715073

Brought some to keep in the tool kit for next time!!