Thread: D2 TD5 engine immobilised

You can get your EKA online if you are willing to pay.....

Discovery 2 EKA Code Online or Telephone 01223 926113.

However, I believe it's possible to get it from LR, and you'll probably pay there as well.

My EKA bears NO resemblance to my key number, and I don't believe yours would either.

My security card doesn't have the number for the wheel nuts either. I don't see why you would assume that the dealer recorded the numbers correctly! My card has the radio security number recorded incorrectly, and I had to get LR to provide it. The stealer did this for free.

If you disconnect the horn, you won't hear the beep when you use the EKA process, and you won't know if you have done it correctly.

The EKA process is tedious, especially if you get it wrong, but does work. Based on what you have said, I'd hazard a guess that the EKA number is incorrect, but it is definitely a guess.

I have never had an issue when changing fob batteries.

I believe that if the ECU and BCU get out of sync the ODO numbers will flash. Not sure if this is always the case, but they did on mine.

I reckon that it's doubtful that the EKA numbers could be changed by the previous owner, but someone like sierrafery would probably be able to give you a definite answer there.

EKA code can be re-written by nanocom, so definitely doable.

Disconnect or hold down the bonnet open sensor on the passenger side and then try connecting the battery again, you may find it doesn't set the horn off, giving you a bit of peace while you try EKA code or all the fobs.
You may need to key lock, battery off and then battery back on to get to a vaguely happy BCU state, and you may want to make sure you have the windows cracked or open

For the fobs try locking the car on each one, if it responds then you have a good key and can unsecure the BCU to get the rest of the info. If none does then maybe this is a receiver issue, it's up in the headlining somewhere and I think you can only try a new/different one and check the voltages etc.

If none of the fobs lock/unlock and you can't get the EKA code working then I don't know what you do. I suspect you are right that you need to send the BCU somewhere to get one of your keys programmed in so that you can get sorted or to get the actual EKA out of it.

IIRC there is an unlock and unimmobilse from fob unlock that last for X seconds to allow maybe a new key coil code to be recognised otherwise you need to have the right key to get the passive immobilser off. I think - I've swapped an ECU for a few mins with a mate to test something and the fob and coil are independent I think. You could also start with the wrong key for the ECU (not BCU) after unlock for a few seconds before cut out.

Originally Posted by johntins

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I reckon that it's doubtful that the EKA numbers could be changed by the previous owner, but someone like sierrafery would probably be able to give you a definite answer there.

without knowing the history of the car via the original owner, this one is hard to determine.

EKA is easy to change with something like a nanocom, we did brothers and mine recently.
I've got mine listed as a note in my phone, but noting in the car .. so any future of those two D2s would need for us to give them the EKA code on sale.

As for if a nanocom would read the BCU/ECU whilst immobilised .. a question I'm curious about too.

Brick on 'bonnet open' sensor.

Pulled the two horn fuses found in the fuse compartment, under bonnet, drivers side. This didn't work - the horn kept going off every time we connected the battery terminals.

Pulled the connection right at the horn as well as the two fuses. This killed any horn noise, but the lights kept flashing. Connected the battery. Waited for the lights to stop, then tentatively put the fuses back in and reconnected the horn directly. No more horn noise around this issue.

Followed the manual instructions regarding EKA data entry. Unlock for 5 sec gave one horn blip saying ready to accept data. Entered data via key in driver side door lock. Did the final unlock and back to centre to get sign off procedure - got one blip to say data is wrong. Tried this process twice, each time getting the single blip to say the code was wrong.

The LED in both keys light up. There does not seem to be any reaction at all from the vehicle when the lock button or the blip button are pressed.

The horn goes off if you unlock the vehicle and open the door at a speed you might normally open a door. However, if you unlock the door and very slowly open the door the horn does not sound, the dash light is off - only when you put the key in the ignition and turn it does the horn then go off. Hmmm.

Just going back to it now that the 10 minute wait has passed to try again.

It's not something simple like a bung sender unit is it?

Rang the previous owner while waiting another 10 minute interval for system reset.

The previous owner sent the VIN to a web site and got an EKA in return, looking nothing like what the dealer wrote on the card. The number obtained from the website did not work for the previous owner. My son and I tried it again, and did not work.

Two keys came with the vehicle when the second owner purchased it 9 years ago. One of these keys eventually disintegrated to the point that the little buttons came off the circuit board. A replacement key was purchased ($400? sound right?). The replacement key has a large plastic tag attached, on it is printed two barcodes with respective digits running parallel under the bars, and a set of other digits not aligned with the bar codes.

Pulling the backs of the fobs shows we have one original 1999 key fob circuit and one 2015 key fob circuit (the one with the barcode tag).

The way I see it (and I could well be wrong), from reading and now some little experience, there are two distinct stages in getting an immobilised vehicle started. The first is to solve the EKA, which simply involves entering the EKA code using the metal key in the drivers door, and doesn't matter that the fob could be miles away from the vehicle. Once the EKA is accepted then the fob needs to be in proximity to the steering column, ie in your pocket or attached to the metal key tang in the lock. The fact we can't get the EKA accepted makes it difficult to ascertain whether the proximity is working.

And to confirm for Johntins, yes, my Key Number and EKA number are the same on the card, except the EKA is spaced with a zero between each of the 4 code digits - take the zeros out and you get the Key Number.

Some people say the NAS EKA is often 1515 (some say 1414). We tried it, but no good. Interestingly we found 1515 scribbled by a previous owner on the paper work relating to the EKA!!

Anyone tried the method where you sit in the vehicle, key in the ignition entering the numbers in a similar fashion to door entry, and after each digit entered you open and close the drivers door?

Found a google map of AULRO members in Oz with Nanocoms and such, willing to help people out. Made contact with one Darwin member on the list, who I've met before on LRover related things. He lives in Darwin weekends but works in Katherine weekdays - so maybe in about 5-6 days time when he returns I'll have the ability to poke around the programming for the EKA - see if you can or cannot access a BCU that appears locked up...I would think you can't, otherwise the car thief just carries a Nanocom and gets your code.

Hi, that 1515 thing is deffinitely not a solution for a D2 it might work on P38s but not sure, if the correct EKA is entered and accepted the car will start once no matter where the fob is cos EKA is conceived especially for the case when the roof receiver or fob fails to work, if no joy with the EKA you should try your luck and replace the roof receiver, it's plug and play and not very hard to change or maybe you are lucky enough to be just a bad earth there cos it's quite common. if nothing helps the easy way is to buy a second hand BCU from a reliable breaker who gives it with the associated EKA and guarantees it's not immobilised but for that you'll need tester to program it to the vehicle...while it's immobilised nanocom is useless