Thread: Time to put away the brick and screwdriver?

My td5 sheared the drive flats out of the sprocket, bolt was loctited in. What saved my engine was the friction between the bolt and sprocket kept the pump turning a little
cheers
blaze

Originally Posted by bblaze

My td5 sheared the drive flats out of the sprocket, bolt was loctited in. What saved my engine was the friction between the bolt and sprocket kept the pump turning a little
cheers
blaze

Happy for you. I wouldn't bet the house on that happening for me, however. My luck doesn't run to that. It is so simple a job I cannot imagine NOT doing it, now that I know.

Originally Posted by johntins

Happy for you. I wouldn't bet the house on that happening for me, however. My luck doesn't run to that. It is so simple a job I cannot imagine NOT doing it, now that I know.

I have nerer heard of another one doing it, still got a pic on my phone of the sprocket and pump
cheers blaze
ps
wasn't cheap as I had to buy complete pump, $1200 If I remember correctly

Originally Posted by bblaze

I have nerer heard of another one doing it, still got a pic on my phone of the sprocket and pump
cheers blaze
ps
wasn't cheap as I had to buy complete pump, $1200 If I remember correctly

Fair enough, I haven't heard of that one either. Still a good reason to have a look, though. At least $1200 is cheaper than a whole new TD5.

Originally Posted by bblaze

ps wasn't cheap as I had to buy complete pump, $1200 If I remember correctly

Can you explain what happened to the sump please?

Originally Posted by johntins

It is so simple a job I cannot imagine NOT doing it, now that I know.

So, is it just a case of dropping the sump off and removing, cleaning and loctite-ing a bolt? Is ordinary thread locker OK or something more specialised? If this bolt holds a sprocket on, I presume there's also a chain involved. Does this need to be properly tensioned afterwards etc.
Do you know of a thread/tutorial about this job?

Originally Posted by johntins

Sorry, but the randomness of this fault means that your post makes no sense. What does the leaking of oil mean? The oil pump bolt is a huge cause of failure on an engine that is basically brilliant, and it costs very little to be sure, as opposed to what it costs to say 'she'll be right' . Are you aware of what a rebuilt TD5 costs?

Pull the sump, do the bolt, be sure. It will cost very little, and you will know. A TD5 can cost more than the price of the car. If that is OK with you, take the advice of those who think they know. A gasket, some oil and some LocTite and you are good to go. You choose. The fact that one car is OK will not help you when it lets go. Just do it. It's not like it is hard.

Johntins I will have to bow to your better knowledge as I wasn't aware the bolt was still a issue on the 15P's , but if i had a oil tight sump [which is rare] i would not be checking the bolt and ruin that glorious leak free gasket.

As a matter of interest when i bought my bolt and gasket from our local LR workshop who have been around for 30 to 40 years, ole mate behind the counter had to look up the part numbers,when i said i thought he would have known the off by heart he replied that they had only seen 3 or 4 motors that the bolts had come adrift and done damage.
I would say that's probably because of the recall and owner awareness of the problem and i think you would have to be damm unlucky to buy a TD5 that hasn't had the bolt checked these days.

Regards

Originally Posted by bblaze

My td5 sheared the drive flats out of the sprocket, bolt was loctited in. What saved my engine was the friction between the bolt and sprocket kept the pump turning a little
cheers
blaze

Maybe the sprocket had been loose and flogged a bit, then the bolt was done and the sprocket kept flogging plus the Tassie winters.
They are a p#%spoor setup aren't they.