Thread: ACE VALVE BLOCK

My D2 ACE valve block has decided to leak, so I pulled it off and removed the 6 seal assemblies from it . Pretty easy job to pull the seal assemblies, you just screw a M10 bolt (as per Land Rover genuine part instructions) and then use a slide hammer or over fulcrum method to pull the out. Installing the new seals is easy, they come fitted on an applicator , you insert the seal, hammer the applicator to seat the seals and then pull out the applicator and bin it.)
I went Genuine seals, but I still have the original leak again from one of the pipes, it doesn't appear to be damaged in appearance, , So going to investigate where there is a loctite hydraulic seler that I can put a couple of drops around the pipe flange.?

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Better fit new collets too - ANR6700 ... reusing the old ones might not make the clamping plate to strengthen well the pipe into the seal

Hi Sierrafery, I fitted genuine seals and genuine ANR6700s at the same time. So not that.And seeing that it is leaking in the same spot as before it must be the pipe.

I have read on pommy site about the pipes can cause problems over there, they rust, but no rust on mine or they can crack?. There was a tutorial on D2boys site about us tapping BSP fittings into the block and then using hydraulic hoses to replace the exisiting lines.
Already spent too much on the seals , I'm selling the D2 very cheap to someone so don't want to spend more on it, but on the same hand I want to to the right thing and make sure it doesn't become a road worthy fail for the buyer.