Put an ohmmeter across the coil of your existing unit. Current = volts (~12) / resistance.
My SLS valve block is leaking. It's definitely the valve block and not the airbags or lines. When I opened the valve block up I noticed that the red seal is not sealing and the rubber stopper isn't sealing either.
A new valve block is $350, and I don't see the point of replacing a worn part with a 2nd hand part, so...
Can anyone see why I can't use 2 individual 12v solenoids (1 or each airbag), and use the existing wiring to run it? The air feeds to and from the solenoids should be easy. I don't have an electrical trade background so I don't know how much current/draw the standard solenoid wiring can handle.
I have a couple of ARB air locker solenoids at home, would they do the trick?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Put an ohmmeter across the coil of your existing unit. Current = volts (~12) / resistance.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Correct. Although a coil will be rated by voltage and wattage (voltage x current for dc)
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
That'd be brilliant Leno. Thank you.
The only other little point to entertain my thoughts while I wait for you is:
I know more about solenoid valves since researching last night. Seems you can buy both 'normally open' and 'normally closed' types. The names seem common sense to me. I wonder what type the original valve block is, and I wonder what the ARB valves are. Mostly I wonder if it really matters.
Does anyone have any idea?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Should be normally closed
ie: power off closed
power on open
Make the ARB block up, put some air on it and power them up individually and see what happens on the out lets of the ports.
The ARB air lockers would work pretty much the same as the SLS block.
They usually have a front and rear lock switch that would operate either solenoid, which in turn would open one of the valves supplying air to either of the lockers and this is what happens on the SLS valve block.
This is the ARB wiring diagram and shows the solenoids.
Also had a look at the ARB solenoids and looks like they are NC 3way so may not work as I think they have an exhaust port out the top of the valve.
So easiest way would be to either order online something like this or go to one of the hydraulic hose joints (enzed or pirtek) and get a quality one!!
12V DC 1/8" 2Way Normally Closed Pneumatic Aluminum Electric Solenoid Air Valve | eBay
Also did a quick amp reading on the existing SLS valves and it's around 0.75amps DC and the ARB ones are 5watts so around 0.5amps
Maybe easier and a lot less hassle and buy a replacement??
Cheers Lemo
I'm starting to think the same! I was trying to be a cheap bum & use the ones that came with my ARB onboard air compressor.
I got a price from roverlord, might end up going that way.
Have to drive past pirtek later, might just price a similar one as a comparison. If it's within a bit might buy the original for ease.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Just pulled out my ARB solenoids. They definitely have exhausts on top, so that's not going to work.
To save redesigning the entire system it sounds easier to go original.
Thanks for your help everyone
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
I have a spare working second hand valve block I scored with a second hand compressor the other day of a disco being wrecked for cheap, yours for the price of postage from Perth if you want it. PM me.
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