Thread: Washer pump.

Check the jets on the rear and headlight washers, Using tap water tends to clog up these

You can figure it out from the attachment, if you hear the motors working when you switch on the desired washer, concentrate on 24 for headlamps and 33 for rear cos if these are failing which is the most common the fluid falls all the way back and the pump is unprimed, if no motor activity then measure for feed in the plugs to see if it's motor or wiring/electrical issue
Washers.jpg

1 Windscreen washer jet 2 off
2 Elbow 3 off
3 In-line non-return valve
4 Tube
5 'T' connector
6 Tube
7 Connector
8 Filler neck tube
9 Filter
10 Cap
11 Bracket
12 Level float
13 Filler neck seal
14 Bolt
15 Reservoir
16 Pump sealing grommet (if fitted)
17 Powerwash pump (if fitted)
18 Clip
19 Tube
20 Screw 2 off
21 Powerwash jet 2 off
22 Clip 4 off
23 Tube
24 'T' connector
25 Tube
26 Nut 2 off
27 Pump sealing grommet 2 off
28 Rear washer pump
29 Front windscreen washer pump
30 Elbow 2 off
31 Tube - front windscreen
32 Tube - rear tail door window
33 Non-return valve

Originally Posted by Barkz71

... The one on passenger side tear of the bottle does the front screen but i cant get any water to rear or headlight washers. Cheers Brett

As already said, the rear passenger side does the front screen, the rear drivers side does the rear door.
The front one does the headlight power washer jets.

Quick and easy test for blockage would be to pull the line from the front pump and pull out the other pump hose and place it on the front pump. You also have to block the now vacant rear pump or water will just flow out.
Then operate the front screen washers as normal and see if water comes out at the rear.

Like Trout said, could just be a blockage or it could be a disconnected joiner or a split hose somewhere too.

If you reversed the two pump lines, and you had water coming out of the front jets for the windscreen, the obvious test now would be to see how much water comes out of the rear pump to the front screen. ie. try the rear screen washer.

In a quiet environment you should hear the high pitched pump noises when operating if standing at the drivers door.

For the power pump there is a weird looking t junction that can block up(was on my D2). I just removed it, added all new hoses and used a brass t-piece.
The original t junction is a non return type .. mine's all blocked up.

I'm pretty sure that the power washer requires that headlights need to be on, and you need to activate the front screen washers for the the power washer to operate but the BCU controls it all.

Headlamp power wash
Headlamp power wash activates when the following conditions are met:
l Ignition switch in position II.
l Headlamps switched on.
l Front wash switch operated.
l BCU counter allows headlamp power wash.

hope that helps

Ripper, thanks y'all. Appreciate the help.

👌👌

Originally Posted by AK83

.....
For the power pump there is a weird looking t junction that can block up(was on my D2). I just removed it, added all new hoses and used a brass t-piece.
The original t junction is a non return type .. mine's all blocked up.

I'm glad that you confirmed what i said though...about nr.24 .... as about the bolded part, IMO that's an unefficient bodge cos the pump will have not enough time prime itself as the fluid will fall back missing the non-return thing but being for headlamps you might not even notice that it doesnt work as it should cos as it's activity is timed and reduced based on the windscreen washer's function. That piece is not so expensive but very important IMO

Originally Posted by sierrafery

I'm glad that you confirmed what i said though...about nr.24 .... as about the bolded part, IMO that's an unefficient bodge cos the pump will have not enough time prime itself as the fluid will fall back missing the non-return thing but being for headlamps you might not even notice that it doesnt work as it should cos as it's activity is timed and reduced based on the windscreen washer's function. That piece is not so expensive but very important IMO

Plans to replace. Car is a project(currently off the road). both the jets for the power wash are missing anyhow so I have them stopped via some bolts and clamps.
With the power wash pump active tho it still has enough pressure to pass the water through the clamped joins too! ... very high pressure setup. So, apart from dripping under the bumper, my water currently goes nowhere ... just like the whole car doesn't!

Yep when I had the bar installed on the green car just the single hose re-move was unsettling enough to have it then continually blow off,, good quality tie wire eventually fixed it, so yes,, high pressure!

Originally Posted by AK83;2740492......

both the jets for the power wash are missing anyhow so I have them stopped via some bolts and clamps
With the power wash pump active tho it still has enough pressure to pass the water through the clamped joins too!

So... as long as the pipes are clamped it's like a non-return valve is fitted cos the fluid doesnt drop back through the pump like with the original setup with faulty non return valve if you see what i mean... also the pressure is normal to build up in a clamped hose more than if it has a way to go out.... unplug electrically that headlamp pump or disable it with tester or you'll ruin it cos it's artificially forced to pump into a blockage