Thread: Top rad hose..

Brett there are a few shape changes ive noticed over the years to reduce this problem. I would actually replace it and my advice is 100% genuine only. Yes they aren't cheap but the cost of overheating a td5 is a whole lot more...😟

Agree entirely with JC. The Genuine hoses are the way to go!.
Pic attached of Genuine hose shows the Genuine hose has paint markings on the ends. These are to ensure accurate fitment of the hose. If you look at the parts the hoses attach to there should be a corresponding notch, line up the marking on the hose with this and it will be at the correct angles.
genuine hose.JPG

Picture of a popular aftermarket top hose after newly fitted. The quality of aftermarket hoses varies too much within batches it seems.
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This hose (and a couple others) seems to cause a lot of heartache if not replaced before it fails.
When I retire next year I would like to manufacture a stainless steel pipe to replace it, my first idea was a short alloy pipe with a bleeder and the 2 small outlets with the hose ends cut from a cheaper hose. I favour the SS pipe now.

Originally Posted by justinc

Yes they aren't cheap but the cost of overheating a td5 is a whole lot more...😟

X10!

I replaced all the hoses for peace of mind. I was lucky that a guy here was selling a full set. However, the set was short the small hose under the exhaust. Guess which hose blew on a road trip round Tassie?
my point? Replace that hose too!

That hose has to be one of the worst designs ever .. and the v8 version isn't far off, but not quite as bad.
The bleeder doodad is totally useless after a period of time.
Brother changed his to a silicon hose type from the UK(ebay) which has stainless steel unions for the joined bottom hose connections a nice solid stainless tube top join section with a proper steel bolt bleeder nipple(including a copper washer).

Other than some swelling, the hose itself is fine .. but that bleeder is just plain 'ol badly designed.
A while prior to him changing it, the bleeder screw broke whilst we tried to undo it to bleed the coolant!
He needed the car going and at 8PM on a Saturday night our only hope for fixing it was at Bunnings.
Had the idea to use a wallmate plug to fit into the hose(with some teflon plumbers tape) and then a tek-screw to cap it off. Worked fine for a couple of months whilst he waited for the silicon/steel hose to arrive.

The only genuine hoses I've seen let go are because of a failed oil cooler combined with people not checking their coolant and the bleeder shredding because of over tightening by using pliers etc , you only need to do the bleeder finger tight. Aftermarket top hose ( forget it ), though I'm not adverse to try a decent silicon hose ......only on my own vehicle

Or cable tie a piece of bike tube rubber or that old grey electrical conduit to the AC compresser pipe that rubs on the top hose.
I did that on all my D2s.

The low pressure power steering hose also likes to rub through,down low,so check that as well.

And while your at it,grab a mirror and torch, and check the fuel hoses on top of the tank...