Do you mean a "DC-DC" charger. ??
Quick summary:
Car2 TD5 2000 model
Optima red top starting battery 1000cca (about)
Dual battery century 65ah next to the turbo with 3b&s dual cable to a 150amp Anderson on the towbar.
130ah dry cell battery in the camper.
No voltage drop between the dual battery & the camper (3b&s to the camper battery also)
So...today I was idling in the car park when I noticed this on the starting battery
I checked the camper battery and saw this:
Now my camper solar panels aren’t working so no watts or ah in the pic...that’s a sore point...the brand new controller needs to go back to the company...grrr!
Do I need a DCDC charger? I ran 3b&s just in case. I’m learning a lot about auto electrics but still have lots to learn.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Do you mean a "DC-DC" charger. ??
Correct, turns out BCDC is a Redarc term
Smart Start BCDC - DC to DC Charger | REDARC Electronics
I’ve edited the post but can’t change the title. Thanks
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Best to take the voltage at the battery with a multi meter with the engine idling
Tim (drivesafe) will say no to your dc/dc charger and i dont see the point in them with a D2![]()
No you don't need one, it will just limit the current your second battery can take from the alternator. There are VERY few setups that would benefit from one. Yours isn't one of them. 😊👍
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
I’ve done a lot a looking into dcdc and for the cost they seem to be more a fad than a need
So many mates go on about the voltage they up it 2 to charge but that’s to get a quicker charge
I’ve put in a sc80 and just spent 3 days on the beach with a 65l fridge and a 100w blanket during the day with minimal sun and never dropped below 12.2v
Although I’m enjoying the different viewpoints, would it be ok if we get back on track please? Many of you may feel frustrated but try to remember that I’m learning, and so are many of other people. If we don’t get told we don’t know.
So...
I’m a bit confused though. I was under the impression that I needed >13.6v to charge my batteries. Sure I am only going by forums and websites. I think by memory when I turned the car off the main battery had 12.6v. I’m now assuming that’s ok?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
I don't think you need one.
I towed my van with my D2 for 2 years with a similar setup to yours including he Victron gear. Never had a problem & yes, the charge voltages were similar to yours. I would suggest buying a DC clamp meter to check the amps flowing also.
+ 2016 D4 TDV6
So, just to remind everyone-
Main battery optima red - piranha dual monitor-century 65ah- 3b&s to camper- 130ah in camper- Victron 100/30 controller- 2x130watt panels on camper (7.5ah each).
I’ll double check the charges at idle later today
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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