All sorted, Have two radiators at home one older style with two spigots at bottom and a new one with sigle spigot. Will fit newer one and should have nil issues. Thanks one and all
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All sorted, Have two radiators at home one older style with two spigots at bottom and a new one with sigle spigot. Will fit newer one and should have nil issues. Thanks one and all
Be sure to reinstate the EGR cooler mounting bolts as I believe one of the bores goes all the way into the front cover and will spray oil if the bolt is left out.
So just to make it all as clear as mud....
The original radiator design on a D2, the lower part of the core was a separate circuit so hot coolant from engine flowed in then out from the rad to the fuel cooler.
Very early on Land Rover changed this and made the radiator core one circuit, so then obviously they didnt want hot coolant from the engine flowing into the bottom of the radiator, so the top spigot on the bottom of the radiator was blanked off,
EU2 early 10P
On the passenger side is the engine oil cooler, end of that is the small hose that connects to the steel pipe that runs behind engine, joins to another hose that connects to the top spigot on the bottom of the radiator.
*Blank off small hose on engine oil cooler.
*Remove steel pipe.
*remove hose from steel pipe to radiator spigot.
EU3 15P
the cooler pipe that runs around the back of the engine, instead of going to the blank spigot on the radiator was directed to the egr cooler and from there to a spigot on the bottom of the expansion tank.
*so the coolant line that feeds to the egr cooler can go directly back to the spigot on the bottom of the expansion tank.
*Or do the same removal for a EU2 and change the expansion tank over to a EU2 one that doesnt have a spigot on the bottom of it.
Regards
Daz