AAP Sensor OHM Readings

**John_D4** · 8th January 2018, 02:02 PM

As briefly discussed in another thread, I’ve hit a logged fault ‘ambient pressure circuit fault’ on the nanocom.

Here are the ohm readings from the AAP sensor on the air box lid, but I don’t know what they mean as I’m not a sparky. I’d appreciate some input from the brains trust

Car is a D2 TD5 2000 (eu2)

**John_D4** · 8th January 2018, 02:07 PM

Just noticed this after posting the last. Am I right in assuming that having the wires bare up against the aircon compressor is a bad thing?

**sierrafery** · 9th January 2018, 11:25 PM

That sensor's resistance readings are completely irrelevant as long as they are not open or closed circuit, the problem is with that wiring which should be well insulated from earth and from each other

**John_D4** · 9th January 2018, 11:47 PM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

That sensor's resistance readings are completely irrelevant as long as they are not open or closed circuit, the problem is with that wiring which should be well insulated from earth and from each other

Agreed (regarding the insulation of the wiring), I’m hoping that this is the cause of the fault. I’ve bought a couple of rolls of the heat proof silicon tape. I’m planning on going back to the ECU, removing the crappy electrical conduit which isn’t heat proof, and re-wrapping the entire length.

Is there a name for this wire harness?

Could this potentially play a part in the temp control of the climate control? Sometimes 23 is perfect & sometimes 21 is too hot...drives me mad. This developed in the last year (ish)

**sierrafery** · 9th January 2018, 11:57 PM

That circuit is part of the main engine harness, mine was also chaffed in a few places some time ago so i bit the bullet and bought a new one... even if there were not any running issues before the engine ran much better after that

**4runnernomore** · 12th January 2018, 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

That circuit is part of the main engine harness, mine was also chaffed in a few places some time ago so i bit the bullet and bought a new one... even if there were not any running issues before the engine ran much better after that

If you don't mind the question what sort of $$ for a replacement ?.

cheers Chris

**Markf** · 12th January 2018, 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by 4runnernomore

If you don't mind the question what sort of $$ for a replacement ?.

cheers Chris

Depending on VIN the engine loom is around $550 - $750 and the injector loom is around $90 - $110. As ever a quick PM to roverlord will see you right.

Both are easy if somewhat messy and time consuming to replace.

**John_D4** · 12th January 2018, 11:27 AM

That was my question also. I’ve noticed wear, darkening and some cracking in areas. Might have to replace them also.

So that’s both engine and injector looms?

**Markf** · 12th January 2018, 11:36 AM

Originally Posted by John_D2

That was my question also. I’ve noticed wear, darkening and some cracking in areas. Might have to replace them also.

So that’s both engine and injector looms?

Yep - you'll need one of each and a new rocker cover gasket won't go astray either.
The engine loom isn't hard but it's a PITA. There's clips and plugs EVERYWHERE and most of the plugs will be nice and brittle so you'll need to be careful especially where you just can't quite get a good grip on the plug. Of course it's a LOT harder if you change it in 40 degree heat in a caravan park...

**John_D4** · 12th January 2018, 12:07 PM

Crikey, just checked paddock spares hoping that you forgot to add a decimal point to the price...£500! In the short term I might just wrap it with silicon heat proof tape. I need the $700 or so to go towards a potential gearbox rebuild. I’m still trouble shooting now, but it’s going into limp mode with full acceleration, plus I’ve got a sound that sounds like truck air release. I think it’s either the gearbox or ACE pressure valves

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