Thread: Rear Electric window Stuck

Some times a test light and or a multi meter is real handy in these moments as you can test the power where needed and the earths as well at all ends .
Id be doing this before digging too deep and blaming the brains puter

The BCU is not involved in the rear windows operation, only the IDM is by energising the relay's coil but the whole operation is managed through the switches by reverting polarity cos the relay should be energised only by ignition on... the relay for both windows is R3 in the interior fusebox(near fuses F11,12,13), fuse F13 is the feed for both motors, if no joy remove the relay and put a bridge across the perpendicular cavities then the circuit to the switches is active and if no change in polarity it is most probably a problem in the switch cos as long as it works one way the circuit to the motor is good

Thanks gents for the quick reply's, how do I put a bridge across the perpendicular cavities ?

Bit nervous how to do this, so thought best to ask first ?

take a paperclip or piece of wire and push the sides in as to make a bridge between the perpendicular cavities with relay removed which will be like closed relay, let the parallel cavities empty cos those are for the coil

Thank you, ok tried that and no change, tried without relay in, didn't work at all, and then put back in and same.

So if not the relay ? where next ?

If the windows dont work with bridged relay it means the feed is lost somewhere provided F13 is good... put back the bridge, get a multimeter and check for voltage at the console switch across one white/pink and the black wire... it must be 12V

btw just confirm non of the rear windows is working no way now and F13 is good?

Checked F13 and fine, it is just the rear passenger window, driver's side is fine. When I bridged it, it still only worked one way, and when swapped wire round would reverse the motor. So thinking it has to be in the wring somewhere but don"t know how to check this ?

You said you have RAVE, first measure for voltage as i said at the console switch, if there is 12V across black and both white/pink wires see "elecrical library - connector views - C0649, check for voltage across body and pins 2 then 3, there must be 12V for both, if it is remobe the switch on the door(C0732) and measure on that too across body and pins 2 then 5 if there is voltage all the way untill there the problem might be within that door switch, eventually swap with the other door to rule it out, make sure that the isolator switch on the console is not on

i rformulate check for voltage at the door's switch first cosmit's easyer then if no voltage there go to C0649