Hi guys so have the disco td5 hooked up to instruments on the nanocom and all
I understand is the coolant temp hahaha
Wondering if there is a spec for what it should be running at a base idle like the boost etc!!
The cyclinder page seems weird as the numbers jumping from pos to neg numbers?
Also the egr etc just sit on 0 so does that mean it’s shut off?
I’m slowly learning but as a bike guy this gear is all new to me
Cheers pat
Just a quick summary when things are normal
Temp : up to around 95 on a hot day , min operating temp around 82
Boost : none at idle , max 1.4 bar under full load though you probably won't see that high
Air flow: 50-60 at idle up to 675 full noise
Cyl balance: checked at idle : up to +4 down to -4 is pretty normal
Throttle pedal: depends if 2 or 3 track (early or late model)
Someone else will be along to fill in the blanks , I've got to go out
The cylinder balance does move around a fair bit, they should all be around +/- of 5 between them.
Ok awesome that one was a worry as I wasn’t sure on tolerance but they all fluctuate between +2/-2
Cylinder balances seem to be good up to about plus or minus 7-10 or so.
Don't know actual numbers, but from what I've seen and experienced up to roughly those values the TD5 runs nice.
Someone explained it once as the ECU controlling the injectors to maintain precise fuelling as each injector is coded in a certain way.
My current TD5 experience is that what you don't want to see is really wide variances in those numbers .. beyond about 10 or so.
Brother's TD5 is currently playing up, and I've been using the nanocom to help pinpoint what's going on.
What happens is that cylinder balances run between about 7 or 8(plus/minus) and car runs beautifully.
Watching the nanocom in cylinder balances page mode, about 10 before the engine shuts itself down those cylinder balances change to massively varying values.
maximum value I've seen has been -500 and something, but generally more like values up to +-50's
I don't really properly understand it, other than whilst the engine runs(nicely) those values are all low and close together, then the values change to wildly variances, and indicate much higher integers.
At this point, we have less than 10 seconds to shut engine down otherwise it shuts itself down and is then extremely hard to start again.
But if we shut it down first(ie. before it cuts out) it then starts up easily and off we go as tho nothing happened .. and the cycle starts over again ...
Like I said, dunno exactly what those values mean, but when engine runs nice, they should be close together on a steady cruise(ie. not more than +-10) can show some wider variance, ie. I think I remember seeing 15's when powering on.
When they show really wide variances, they all show variances of between 50 or more relative to each other .. for us it's an indication that a problem is imminent and engine runs badly or (now) shuts itself down.
I think boost pressure is managed at something like 240kPa or so, which equates to about 17psi.
Airflow is an important one to watch as the air flow is a well known tender part that can cause running issues.
I think a normally good value is roughly 500-ish on a steady cruise(maybe, someone will confirm).
Good to know what a good value is, as once the AFM starts playing up and causes running issues, easy to locate it as the source of the running issues
Another page to keep a note of(ie. not watch constantly, but understand it's values and meaning) is the accel page, that shows you the voltages that you're accelerator pedal(TPS) inputs/outputs.
Pedal is drive by wire, and voltages determine how much input to the engine.
My understanding is that you'll have either a 2 track or a 3 track TPS, and that one track rises as the other falls, and they both equal the supply voltage. Helps to diagnose an expensive TPS issue.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Ah explains a bit
I wonder if the value on cyclinders is something like pressure and maybe it’s hydro locking at those extremes
Actually 240kpa = 36psi and that would be a manifold pressure reading which equates to ambient pressure + charge pressure. Subtract ambient pressure from manifold pressure and you have your actual “Boost” pressure...
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Note entirely sure on what's going on, other than they're all settled with fairly integer values, but + or -
Can change as you power up a bit, as you'd expect as each injector requires more less fuel than another .. and the ECU does all the required calculations.
Injectors have codes, and they're programmed into the ECU, so that the ECU knows what each injector needs in terms of fuel adjustment relative to each other injector.
My suspicion with the brothers current issue is that it's a failing ECU, rather than the current advise that injector seals are shot .. but we're planning to do the injector seals when we have the time too.
More so to eliminate this from the equation too I guess.
So the cylinder page has a bit of value as a diagnostic page .. just hope that you don't have to deal with it too.
Not sure if it's hyrdolocking tho .. I think it's more along the lines of evacuating the fuel feeds/lines to each injector, or just shutting them all down.
The issue is like fuel starvation once shut down.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Are right not getting enough
My air flow seems to just sit a 4.3-4.4 g/s
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