Thread: Nanocom readings

Your talking about maf yer

Originally Posted by Mclaren00

Your talking about maf yer

air flow meter = MAF(mass air flow) .. or something like that.



If it's stuck at the same setting no matter what you do, or is low reading, then like discorevy says .. time to change it.
The TD5's ECU runs at some default settings or something, to get keep the car moving, but not optimal.

And get a good quality VDO/Original MAF too.
A cheap will work for a short while, but by the time you've changed 5 cheapos within the space of a year as they slowly fail .. it'd have cost about the same as a proper one, without the hassle!

Awesome will order on tomorrow
Funny it doesn’t run rough but only thing I have noticed is on start up if u don’t let it sit for a min or give a few revs it will hestitate even foot to the floor

Originally Posted by Mclaren00

Are right not getting enough
My air flow seems to just sit a 4.3-4.4 g/s

That's certainly dead MAF, here's a list :


MAF(mass air flow - kg/hr) = 55-65 at idle growing with revs up to 600 or above at 3000+rpm under heavy load, at 618 it cuts out and drops to 0

AAP(ambient pressure - KPa) = real ambient pressure on barometer in kPa, around 100 must drop up to 2 units to 3000+rpm, more decreasing of that value related to the acceleration should indicate that the air beyond the filter is less than required.

AAT(ambient temp) -only Eu3/15-16P engines = real ambient temp on thermometer (not shown by nanocom)

MAP(manifold absolute prssure - KPa) = very close to AAP at idle growing to 230 at full load... nanocom instruments shows Turbo pressure which is MAP - AAP and transformed in Bar , at full load without tuning should be around 1.3 bar

IAT(inlet air temp - *C) = AAT + 10 to 30 depending on outside temp, engine coolant temp and boost(meaured with coolant gauge at middle)...also it can be much higher if non-cooled EGR is still fitted

COOLANT TEMP = while the gauge stays at the midddle is between 70 - 115 , normal around 90*C, the gauge will go to red zone only at 120 and the electric cooling(aircon) fan kicks in at 110 and stops at 105

FUEL TEMP = around 10-20 less than coolant temp depends on ambient temp

THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 – this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY – this value must stay between 4.9 - 5.1
* an up to +0.5V for WAY 1 and -0.5V for WAY 2 are accepted

IDLE ESPEED = around 750rpm

IDLE SPEED ERROR – This is a calculated value that shows the difference between the idle speed and the real drive demand

​*** I recommend Inputs fuelling which can be saved to SD card for these readings rather than Instrument

Awesome seems my maf only issue everything else pretty good
You blokes are too notch

Just a word on cylinder balance.

My understanding is that the TD5 injection was designed like petrol injection.

The Crank Position Sensor measures the acceleration ( or change in speed) of the crankshaft after each cylinder fires and then the CPU adjusts the fuel injection duration of the next cylinder to fire to smooth the engine revs, hence the +2% etc.

So as long as they are pretty close the engine runs smoothly.

If they get out of whack , it shows a problem with an injector or the injector loom, or even maybe a mechanical problem like a leaking valve. I don't know if it shows leaking washers as mine seemed to be within a couple of % even though my washers were leaking.
The engine doesn't run without a CPS.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just a word on cylinder balance.

My understanding is that the TD5 injection was designed like petrol injection.

The Crank Position Sensor measures the acceleration ( or change in speed) of the crankshaft after each cylinder fires and then the CPU adjusts the fuel injection duration of the next cylinder to fire to smooth the engine revs, hence the +2% etc.

....

If they get out of whack , it shows a problem with an injector or the injector loom, or even maybe a mechanical problem like a leaking valve. I don't know if it shows leaking washers as mine seemed to be within a couple of % even though my washers were leaking.
The engine doesn't run without a CPS.
Regards Philip A

Just a question on this topic:
We're trying to diagnose/fix my brothers TD5 with such an issue. Cylinder balances are all good, then about 3-4mins into driving, they all go out of whack(up to that point pretty well balanced).
Could the CPS be playing up .. say overheating or something. (I know zero of this CPS, other than it exists).
Do CPS do anomalous things, or just work and then not work?

Originally Posted by AK83

Cylinder balances are all good, then about 3-4mins into driving, they all go out of whack(up to that point pretty well balanced).

That's sign of low fuel pressure in most cases...provided the engine looses power too cos otherwise the injector balances are relevant only at idle... the pump can run only on LP which wil let the engine to start and run but as the fuel request grows under load the pressure is not enough and the ECU is trying to compensate via the injectors and the balance goes mad... can be diue to FPR as well, would be a good move to measure the fuel pressure with a gauge inserted instead of the FT sensor in the FPR to rule this out...if the pressure is below 4bar there a new pump is needed