Nanocom readings

**onebob** · 12th February 2018, 11:02 AM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

That's certainly dead MAF, here's a list :

MAF(mass air flow - kg/hr) = 55-65 at idle growing with revs up to 600 or above at 3000+rpm under heavy load, at 618 it cuts out and drops to 0

AAP(ambient pressure - KPa) = real ambient pressure on barometer in kPa, around 100 must drop up to 2 units to 3000+rpm, more decreasing of that value related to the acceleration should indicate that the air beyond the filter is less than required.

AAT(ambient temp) -only Eu3/15-16P engines = real ambient temp on thermometer (not shown by nanocom)

MAP(manifold absolute prssure - KPa) = very close to AAP at idle growing to 230 at full load... nanocom instruments shows Turbo pressure which is MAP - AAP and transformed in Bar , at full load without tuning should be around 1.3 bar

IAT(inlet air temp - *C) = AAT + 10 to 30 depending on outside temp, engine coolant temp and boost(meaured with coolant gauge at middle)...also it can be much higher if non-cooled EGR is still fitted

COOLANT TEMP = while the gauge stays at the midddle is between 70 - 115 , normal around 90*C, the gauge will go to red zone only at 120 and the electric cooling(aircon) fan kicks in at 110 and stops at 105

FUEL TEMP = around 10-20 less than coolant temp depends on ambient temp

THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 – this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY – this value must stay between 4.9 - 5.1
* an up to +0.5V for WAY 1 and -0.5V for WAY 2 are accepted

IDLE ESPEED = around 750rpm

IDLE SPEED ERROR – This is a calculated value that shows the difference between the idle speed and the real drive demand

*** I recommend Inputs fuelling which can be saved to SD card for these readings rather than Instrument

This should be considered for inclusion in “the good oil” forum if it’s not there already - excellent !!
Thanks SF

**PhilipA** · 12th February 2018, 12:43 PM

We're trying to diagnose/fix my brothers TD5 with such an issue. Cylinder balances are all good, then about 3-4mins into driving, they all go out of whack(up to that point pretty well balanced).

A low battery will also reflect in injector balance as well as lighting up the dash.
I know its simplistic but have you checked all of the terminals and earth points.

Those bloody silly vertical bolts in the battery terminals can be loose and seem tight.
My D2 stopped on the way home from buying it and all it was was that the battery terminals were crap, and the poor PO had spent hundreds on a mechanic trying to diagnose the "fault"

Regards Philip A

**sierrafery** · 12th February 2018, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by discorevy

Of course leaking injector washers will cause these symptoms as well , but I may have mentioned this before

Yes but in most cases leaking washers would cause hard starting from cold as well, actually IMO hard starting would be the first sign for that

**Mclaren00** · 12th February 2018, 07:24 PM

Apart from filling her up that’s a easy job especially after a run and hose is softer

IMG_4449.jpg IMG_4450.jpg

**AK83** · 13th February 2018, 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Yes but in most cases leaking washers would cause hard starting from cold as well, actually IMO hard starting would be the first sign for that

That's one of the symptoms from my searching too.
None of that, starts easily every time, except for when it does it's shut down thing automatically.
If I shut it down before it does itself, starts up with hardly a full crank rotation .. ie. instantly.

ps. don't want to take this thread off topic too tho.
I'll reply back in my own thread once we've had the chance to change the seals.

**AK83** · 13th February 2018, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by Mclaren00

Apart from filling her up that’s a easy job especially after a run and hose is softer

....

ps. I replied asking how your nanocom readings are now with the new maf .. but in the what happened thread, by mistake, instead of here .. oops!

**Mclaren00** · 13th February 2018, 10:19 AM

So on idle 55 and anywhere up to around 460 with foot down
Seems bang on from what you were saying
Giddy up

**sierrafery** · 13th February 2018, 10:22 AM

That 460 at full load is a bit low though but can be normal if you still have EGR or if the depression control valve is stuck open, you can't really check that, if you know it's old better simply replace it with a new one

**Mclaren00** · 13th February 2018, 11:09 AM

That’s not foot to floor just quick blip of throttle
Yer still have egr but have a kit to remove it

**Mclaren00** · 13th February 2018, 05:19 PM

So foot down full load highest I seen it gp was about 570g/s

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