Thread: D2 Rear Door Strut??

I can't see why not John. The D2 rear door is way heavier than the Defender door but it's weight is on its hinges. Whether it holds the door open...

Cheers

Originally Posted by John_D2

I was following a post on the AULRO Facebook page about a guy who has fit 1 of the below kits to his defer rear door.

Could anyone see why it couldn’t also work for a D2?


Gas Strut Kit for Land Rover Defender rear door - Mulgo

Wasn't there a guy on here a few months ago with a red? D2 who was about to do the big lap and developed something along these lines. I thought I copied a pic, but now can't find it.

Easy too pull your door catch out and re tension the stoppers to hold the door properly.

PITA part is the lack of room for the nut holding the slide nearest the back of the car because of the bumper.
I used a 1/4 drive 10mm socket on a ratchet handle to break the hold on the nut, but didn't undo it. The more you undo it the less room between it and the bumper.
I didn't want to round the bolt head, so only used the 1/4 socket to crack the bolt.
A ratcheting ring spanner is helpful, but a std one will do too.

Once the slide was off, you see a set of three ridges that hold the sliding arm connected to the body.
If you only want to hold the door at it's widest point, then just rejig the ridges closest to the angled end of the assembly.
I also did the middle ridges, as sometimes it's handy to hold the door at half open point.
Didn't touch the ridges at the point where the door just opens(no point, useless set of stoppers there anyhow).


The door slide has a set of 'rails' and ridges on a separate length of metal to the actual body of the assembly.
Assembly in the vice nearest thee ridges you want to reform, a pair of multigrips to hold the metal strip on the other side of the ridge, and jam something under each ridge to reform them to give better tension between the slide and the arm.

I took some pics if you want some visuals.

While process took less than an hour, including blasting the assembly with brake cleaner to remove the years of baked on crud too.

Originally Posted by AK83

Easy too pull your door catch out and re tension the stoppers to hold the door properly.

I took some pics if you want some visuals.

Pics would be luverley

Originally Posted by AK83

Easy too pull your door catch out and re tension the stoppers to hold the door properly.

This appears to be part of me learning more about LR mechanics. I didn’t know there was this. Mine must need doing because it really doesn’t hold well when open. 1st D2/LR so I thought it was normal.

Can you post pics pls?

The slider is a plate that only goes one way. IIRC the 'squared end' goes to the back, angled end goes to the front.
3 sets of ridges.
When you open the door, the set of ridges that the arm rests on when you remove the assembly are the last stops that hold the door wide open.
This set and (possibly) the middle set are all you'd need to do.
The other set of ridges only make it harder to open the door, so I left them alone.

20180224_102440.jpg

Note the 'rail' looking metal. As you try to re form the ridges, the rail section just raises itself so you get nowhere quickly!
Clamp the rail section, and 'jimmy' the ridges to give them some lift again.
Note from the pic below the rail does come away from the main body of the assembly as you jimmy the ridges.
This is what you want. The raised profile now gives the slider/arm thingy more tension.

20180224_102549.jpg

One you have your assembly off, you'll probably notice that the catch on the arm will have a lot of slack when it's on the ridge section. I assume that it's this slack that doesn't hold the door properly.
Once the ridges are lifted, the additional tension removes this slack.

To remove the assembly, remove the circlip on the pin on the body first. If you don't do this you won't have access to the bolt on the assembly under the door.
Then a ring spanner or 1/4 drive socket sets with a very short socket is needed to remove the bolt closest to the car body .. bumper doesn't allow room to remove that bolt. Only enough space to allow you to crack the bolt off.
The two bolts holding the assembly to the door are both different, but still both use 10mm heads.

Note that there's a plastic bush between the arm and the car body too.

ps. new door stay assembly part No. ALR9290 may still be available.
Same part as D1, and priced a bit on the high side at 80+ UK pounds(excl delivery)

Thanks. You’re a ninja