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Thread: Front drive shaft

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Chris was lucky to get the outer sleeve out with the ball.
    Ours also had the ball out but the sleeve stuck hard inside the casing too.
    Get a cheapo small wood chisel, and slowly hack at one point making a groove into the outer sleeve(obviously not the case).
    Chisel will get a pounding and may end up being throw away, unless you're good a regrinding it back.

    Took about 10mins of gentle massacring the sleeve. Note that it didn't actually cut right through the sleeve, just enough to make it softy-bendy with a bit of a warp in it to finally get a grip and pull it out with a pair of multigrips.
    No damage to casing.
    Up and down groove? Parallel to the three grooves in the race?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourteen8 View Post
    Got tom woods shaft. Question: is the grease for the uj and shaft the same? Thanks.
    Of course

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Chris was lucky to get the outer sleeve out with the ball.
    Ours also had the ball out but the sleeve stuck hard inside the casing too.
    Get a cheapo small wood chisel, and slowly hack at one point making a groove into the outer sleeve(obviously not the case).
    Chisel will get a pounding and may end up being throw away, unless you're good a regrinding it back.

    Took about 10mins of gentle massacring the sleeve. Note that it didn't actually cut right through the sleeve, just enough to make it softy-bendy with a bit of a warp in it to finally get a grip and pull it out with a pair of multigrips.
    No damage to casing.
    In my opinion luck did not have anything to do with it

    Had a lot to do with the welding heat transfer that helped thing`s shrink and free up also the way it pulled out via a straight pull
    If anyone has a dead shaft and want this done im happy to be proved wrong
    Hell bring two over and we will go for best of of three successful attempt`s

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    In my opinion luck did not have anything to do with it

    Had a lot to do with the welding heat transfer that helped thing`s free up also the way it pulled out via a straight pull
    If anyone has a dead shaft and want this done im happy to be proved wrong
    Hell bring two over and we will go for best of of three successful attempt`s
    Ill trying the oven on mine.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Ill trying the oven on mine.
    Good luck with the roasties

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Good luck with the roasties
    Well that did not work. I have amate who has a mig welder and a Dremel. He is quite a craftsman. I still dont understand why heating it up makes the inner race drop out. It will expand and bind tighter.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Up and down groove? Parallel to the three grooves in the race?
    With the chisel, you create a groove in the inside of the outer sleeve. Once you have started forming this groove just keep hacking along that groove. it eventually weakens the sleeve to be able to bend it just enough to weaken the hold between the case and the sleeve.

    if you have a mate with a dremel .. even better .. just hack at it with the dremel instead of the chisel.

    I gave my dremel(knock off) to my brother, and if he had brought it with him, we'd sure have preferred to use that instead of the chisel.

    If you do get a dremel, cut the sleeve at about 45° to vertical, like I said, you don't need to hack it right through the metal.. just a 2mm cut into the metal is more than enough to soften some part of it and then easy(ish) to bend it from there and pull it.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Well that did not work. I have amate who has a mig welder and a Dremel. He is quite a craftsman. I still dont understand why heating it up makes the inner race drop out. It will expand and bind tighter.
    No it does work the problem with your method is you heated the whole unit so it all heated up and expanded and shrunk together .

    Here watch this not the best vid

  9. #29
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    No it does work the problem with your method is you heated the whole unit so it all heated up and expanded and shrunk together .

    Here watch this not the best vid
    He must have used a whole roll of mig wire on that one, I didn't he was ever going to stop!. then a bash on the new bering with a mallet, a press would have been a better option on that one. LOL


  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    He must have used a whole roll of mig wire on that one, I didn't he was ever going to stop!. then a bash on the new bering with a mallet, a press would have been a better option on that one. LOL
    Over zealous on the welding bit and rough on the new bearing
    I did say not the best vid
    But it helps to show how this weld method works even tho some find it hard to believe

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