My mistake, I thought the Modulator as being discussed was the Actuator. Didn't realize the D2 had more than the waste gate to control the boost.
My mistake, I thought the Modulator as being discussed was the Actuator. Didn't realize the D2 had more than the waste gate to control the boost.
So far I have:
changed air and oil filters,
Silly question you did do fuel filter to?
Ah, well spotted!
Actually that's a typo 🙃
Haven't done oil filter but HAVE done fuel filter.
But, ran some diagnostics and got a fuel interesting bits and pieces. Was only brief, but much appreciated.
0137 - injector fault. Ran the car and injector 3 getting 6-8rpm out around 2200rpm... Explains the misfire.
Likely to require injector replacement?
0058- air flow too low/circuit fault
0060 - inlet air temp sensor too low /circuit fault
It was suggested these were indicative of MAF issues.
The idle air inlet temperature was around 29
Airflow 59 at idle.
Didn't get it under load.
It was also suggested the current maf may be a cheap Chinese one, could be the issue.
Any comments from this data??
Injector balance is only meaningful at idle not at revs
Should be single digits -+
You said you have already run with maf disconnected and no difference so probably rule that out although it is usually the #1 culprit for a lazy td5.
And pretty sure the MAF doesn't have an inlet temp feedback to the ecu despite it using the 'hot wire principle' for airflow.
I am assuming you have replaced the air filter?
As mentioned delaminating turbo hoses are common also and will choke the engine.
Also mentioned was the EGR, if it is still active quite probably gunked up and stuck open reducing boost.
Not sure if the inlet temp fault is from the MAP sensor or AAP as they both measure inlet temps on EU3.
I am guessing the MAP so might be worth trying another MAP sensor.
Quite a few sensors on the td5 effect fueling besides the few you have dealt with.
AAP sensor, fuel temp and engine temp as well but what you describe does sound more like a low boost issue.
The only thing I can think of that has not been mentioned is a blocked cat restricting exhaust flow.
Paul.
Paul.
77 series3 (sold)
95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
2003 XTREME Td5
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
Trace the waste gate actuator hose from the turbo all the way back to the waste gate control solenoid checking for splits or cracking along its length and at hose ends and then do the same for the hose that runs from the bottom of the WG control Solenoid down to the connection with the boost pipe. Renew hoses or trim and re-connect hose ends to ensure there are no leaks.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Check the wiring from the MAF around the front of the engine .
It is not unknown for the wiring to chafe on the corner at the front of the engine or at the steek clamps along the front.
Regards Philip A
Looking back , I don't see whether your car is an EU2 or 2002 on EU3.
If an EU2 the temp thing means nothing as they didn't have one.
If an EU3 then the possibility of both a MAF and temp fault increases the possibility of shorted wires in the harness as they share a harness.
inlet temp is measured from map sensor on both eu2 and eu3
intake air temp is measured from aapt on eu3 only
cat converter on eu3 only
I haven't seen whether the op's disco is eu2 or 3 either.
without data log or a more comprehensive result ( including max boost pressure / max air flow) from live values it is speculation.
edit: the physical things mentioned are worth checking, you can , as mentioned do a stall test and report back the max stall speed
I just reread your first post. Unless the d1 tdi was modified significantly the stock td5 being left for dead indicates its sick. Now if you were coming from a v8 I could understand you being underwhelmedbut seriously the td5 in stock tune is quicker than what you are experiencing. Cheers
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