100Nm
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The hub may then move on the splines fretting them in that great Defender tradition.Quote:
So what is the consequence of not doing it up to that amount of torque
Seriously The exact torque is not that important.
IMHO just let the rattle gun rattle for a while.
Regards Philip A
I do my Hubs up with an Milwaukee impact gun,never had an problem
As long as you know what torque the gun is set at, that's okay.
Exact torque is usually so that you don't over-stress the threads or the strength of the fastener. Rather important, I'd say.
Quote:
Exact torque is usually so that you don't over-stress the threads or the strength of the fastener. Rather important, I'd say.
It's a bloody big thread and a bloody big nut so there would be not much chance of overstressing it unless you had a bloody big rattle gun. I would doubt that mine would get to 450NM but probably in the high 3s. I have used the same hub and same nut so I stop when near the original position which is indicated by the indent in the collar of the nut which you have to bash out to undo.
New hub and nut would be more problematic.
Regards Philip A
Have I read this right ?, the original wheel bearing fails so the hub is replaced; this new hub fails and is again replaced and has now failed again ?
It could be a quality issue with the replacement hub(s), I assume you've followed this up with your supplier ? is there a known issue ?, presumably not as you've posted here.
So that leaves us with three hub failures in a very short time, the first can possibly be written off to 'normal wear and tear', the second to 'Murphys Law' or just **** out of luck but a third ?, no way, I reckon there's got to be something else going on here. But what ?
How about a bit of vehicle history/usage etc what's happened that may have bought this rash of bearing failures on ?
Just 'reaching' here, is the front axle bent backwards like when you hit a stump/rock hard and skewed the steering geometry/setup which could be compensated for with tie rod adjustment but cranking the stub axle at an extreme angle when at full lock putting uneven strain on the bearing causing it to prematurely fail ? As I said reaching here but just trying to figure out a cause for multiple bearing failure on the one wheel.
Your Disco isn't one of those stunt cars that drives along on two wheels on the one side ? :) or you drive hard to get your bearings warm and then go and park the front side of the vehicle in the dam ? :)
Just trying to come up with a reason for your multiple failures. I don't reckon nut torque unless grossly overdone is an issue here.
My two bobs worth.
Deano :)
Which location is the one that is failing ?
Maybe think about where you drive if it is a L/H bearing that is giving you grieve .
The L/H wheel`s are all ways running on the worst part of the road you could also have a alignment issue with something bent but you would be scrubbing tyres [wink11]
What tyre profile are you running?
LH front.
This is the second bearing to fail. The original was replaced but was not shagged (long story). Bearings on other three corners still original. So no originals have failed.
Supplier honoured first failure with warranty. Apparently second bearing came from a different run so bad batch ruled out. Can only take their word for that.
Have not yet pulled second bearing off vehicle. Will not get to that for about a week. Will report findings when I do.
Vehicle is 4.0 V8 auto with 300k on clock. City car until 200k. Touring 4WD since then, travels at GVM. 31” tyres on 16x8 P38 wheels.
Has seen deserts, sand, mud, rocks, water, snow etc but nothing outrageous. Has never been stuck, pullled or winched to give you an idea.
Alignment is good, always has been. Has not taken any knocks big enough for me to remember.
Some pulsing in the brakes. That or the nut being over or under torqued are all I can come up with.
Thanks for the input. Happy to hear any ideas as I’d rather not waste another few hours and few hundred bucks doing it again.