You need the ones with Timken bearings.
I bought a cheap one $350 & it failed really quickly.
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You need the ones with Timken bearings.
I bought a cheap one $350 & it failed really quickly.
YouTube
This is the same design hub.
+Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
+1 (other than the mechanic comment).
1/. (i.e) I'm not a mechanic!(I'm a truck driver), but sometimes you gotta do what you have to to keep moving, so pretending to be a mechanic and getting hands dirty isn't an issue for me.
But having done brothers D2 a while back and more recently doing my D1 .. give me the D2 option every time.
2/. Time! takes about one hour or maybe a tad more to do the bare minimum bearing replacement on the D1 .. took about 30mins to do brothers D2.
On the D1 tho, it doesn't into account the stub axle .. while not a lot more time to do that too, just the added stuffing about with more parts than the D2 all in one design type.
If you're not a do-it-yourselfer type, then time becomes an issue on the cost of the repairers time too.
While you could get away on a D1/Defender/RRC type assembly just doing the bearings and seals, more often then not, there will be another issue somewhere else down the track, whether it's the drive member is worn, or the inner bearing for the CV or spacer collar .. or whatever.
So D2 bearings initially seem more expensive than the cheapest option for the D1/Def/RRC assembly type, but if you want to renew the entire assembly type, the total cost(of parts plus the mechanic/technicians, time) far surpasses the much better D2 design.
I reckon we could do all four D2 bearings in the time it'd take just to do the one front complete assembly on a D1(granted that the rear's are quicker to do tho).
I've been looking at all my bearing/hub/CV/seals/etc bits for a few days now trying hard to motivate myself to get stuck into it all ... I'm just not very good at self motivation tho! [tonguewink]
Makes sense. Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Did you watch the vid above?Quote:
Originally Posted by ballbag
I missed it earlier but have just watched it. Was there something in particular I should have picked up on?
I was reasonably familiar with the construction already but obviously not expert.
No just thst the degree in which the nut is tightened has no bearing (😅) on the preload...Quote:
Originally Posted by ballbag
ie. I think what JC is saying .. is that you can't really stuff up the install.
so most likely reason for failed bearings will then simply equate to either manufacturing faults(or just plain dumb luck) or some kind of other installation anomaly.
When we did brothers, about the only real way to stuff up at install would be if zero care was taken during the installation of the ABS sensor, and possibly dirt had fallen into the access hole prior to fitting the sensor?
Removed bearing yesterday and compared to new cheapo sourced from UK (box branded ‘Vorderkante’).
Noticed old bearing had no o-ring or gasket sealing ABS sensor. New bearing has an o-ring for the probe and 2 metal gaskets for the mount.
Also jogged my memory of the first replacement not having a rubber seal for the assembly itself to seal against the knuckle. That bearing went back to supplier and warranty was honoured and they either didn’t notice or didn’t care.
Waiting on some new brake rotors to arrive before torquing up new axle nut.
Hopefully this one makes it through winter.....
So you're replacing a failed non-genuine part, with another non-genuine part?Quote:
Originally Posted by ballbag
There are some parts I just don't bother with non-genuine. Things like steering and suspension are prime examples. Wheel bearings and seals, I will try for genuine or (true) OEM components, as per the earlier comment regarding Timken bearings.