Thread: Failed front wheel bearings - where did I go wrong?

Yes, the more I think about it the more I believe so.

You said they weren't Britpart. Were they genuine LR, or aftermarket?

I spent some time looking for a cutaway.
I don't know whether the bearings are tapered roller or ball bearings, however whichever they are they come from the factory pre tensioned.
You would have to really overdo the torque to distort the spacer enough to over-tension the bearing.
However anything is possible!
I mean another term for 450NM is a "****load" and 650 on the back is a "big ****load"
I have to say That I still think they were faulty from the start or have been wet.
Why not try a second hand known good bearing to see how it lasts?

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Regards Philip A

A really stupid cheap and nasty design that came about because mechanics are not mechanics any more. We can't have "Service Technicians" getting dirty hands can we .
Packing and adjusting tapered rollers is just not on , Who knows what hazardous stuff in in grease ? !!

Impossible to overtorque them.. they are assembled pretorqued, lubed and ready to bolt on. The torque setting for the nut is simply to clamp the bearing inner race, which is part of the internal splined drive surface, hard to the CV bell to prevent spline fretting, same as any front wheel drive car.

Originally Posted by goingbush

A really stupid cheap and nasty design that came about because mechanics are not mechanics any more. We can't have "Service Technicians" getting dirty hands can we .
Packing and adjusting tapered rollers is just not on , Who knows what hazardous stuff in in grease ? !!

Have to disagree with that,
From factory you can expect around 300000 k before replacement normally
How many repacks / axle seals/ swivel hub bearing/gaskets / bush/ grease / bearing replacements in that time at what cost in time / labour?
In my view this is a much better design
Just don't skimp on rubbish parts when it's time for replacement, only problem is finding quality parts these days
I still consider myself a mechanic, but you can call me what you like.

Originally Posted by donh54

You said they weren't Britpart. Were they genuine LR, or aftermarket?

Aftermarket, sourced in Aus but can’t recall brand sorry. Price was about $350.

Originally Posted by justinc

Impossible to overtorque them.. ...The torque setting for the nut is simply to clamp the bearing inner race....hard to the CV bell to prevent spline fretting .....

So you reckon no chance of deforming the inner race if over-torqued?