Here you go, knock yourself out....
The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking
The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking
Greetings all
Have progressed from my D2 petrol and I am the proud new owner of a 99 TD5 - a grandpa car as in 8-9/10 condition that has just ticked over 240k.
It was luuuuuv at first sightJust luv drivin the thing and am still trying to get my head around getting 800+ k per tank!
Already done the EGR removal/Provent 200 mod and using Chemtec each fill.
Anyway, enough of my adolescent infatuation over my new drive - between 2250rpm and 2500rpm (when driving) it has developed a metallic rattle like a loose heat shield. Not being female and able to be in two places at one time as in can't drive and listen from outside, it appears to be roughly under the drivers seat area but can't find anything loose so far.
Did the coasting in neutral test and blipped the accelerator and hardly any rattle at 2250-2500 so I'm guessing it may be gearbox related or something I haven't found yet.
Anyone had a similar experience or able to shed any light on the mysterious metallic rattle.
Cheers
HunterJ
PS: Best engine and gearbox oils to use recommendations appreciated.
Here you go, knock yourself out....
The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking
The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking
I’ll save you some reading and suggest it might be the hand brake shoes?
To test this you’ll need to be traveling and lightly pull on the hand brake, if the rattle goes then you’ve found the problem.
Then you’ll need to either replace the backing plate on the hand brake drum as the shoes wear away the plate and there’s also an upgrade kit that uses stiffer springs as well.
Hope this helps?
And as for oil, a lot of members use Penrite as do I and for all oils
There’s plenty of info on here if you use the search function
Cheers Lemo
Also check your front prop shaft.
Near the drivers seat and they fail in all sorts of ways and therefore make different sounds and peoples experiences are wide and far.
Check the forum for prop shafts on the D2.
I'd say it has all of the descriptions of the front double cardan joint. A doable home job, if requiring 3 hands at some point
Check brake mud shields. They crack around the mounting bolts. Happens... all .... the ..... time. Especially if car has 16” wheels as they often catch the shield when removing/refitting a wheel.
as Lemo stated, it will be handbrake shoes at those revs
as a temporary measure and until you repair / replace the springs / backing plate , adjust the handbrake ( 17mm 3/8" socket on the front side of backing plate down the bottom until you get 2-3 clicks out of the hand brake.
Penrite hpr 5 , 5/40 diesel oil is my go to for the td5 , fully syn dex 6 works well with the 4hp22 eh box , gl5 for the rest of the driveline
Thanx heaps for all the replies guys.
Will start with checking out the hand brake this weekend!
Cheers
HunterJ
Misread post , its a TD5 now.
If using Penrite, ATF FS also works well.
It's what I've filled mine with.
If you can afford it Castrol Transmax Z is the ATF all others would be judged by.
In an R380 Castrol Syntrans 75w-85 is good, but if $ are no object Motul Gear 300 (non LSD) is bloody amazing.
Don't be put off by it being a 75w-90, at 0° it's thinner than Syntrans.
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