Thread: Replacing rear pads and discs. Any traps for the unwary?

I just received a kingchrome impact driver for that reason, so they are available

No, not the same.

Delete the screws.

Clean and grease the caliper slide pins.

Pretty easy Julian!
I replaced the Phillips head counter sunk screw with a Allan head screw, so next time I need to get them off it’s a whole lots easier!!

Also check the backing plate for cracks around the bolts and use some anti seize on all the bolts etc
Give the caliper slides a good service and lube as well!

Cheers Lemo

I've personally never needed an impact wrench i normally get away with a few taps from a hammer. But I have a long breaker bar if I really need it. The bolts should have lock tight which dosnt make it easier. And if it's like the D1 you will need at star shape socket not a nut shape.
Depending on how long it's been the hub could be seized on the rotor you can get it off just takes some bashing.
It's an easy job I can knock it over in an hour now with changing bearings, but my hubs have always fell off. And torque your hub/rotor bolts properly, it's possible to warp the rotor from over tightening.
Have a good one

Cheers Jim

Originally Posted by Bohica

.... The only problem I am aware of is removing the screw that holds the disc to the drive flange and that might need an impact driver....

If you're desperate for one, I have one you can borrow.
Advice is to get all new retaining screws before you do it all, so you have them ready to fit up.
Almost always chewed to pieces, as people hack them up undoing them, then put the hacked ones back in .. over and over.
Cheap bits, not worth stuffing about reusing the old damaged ones.

Great tips above. I would also watch your fluid level in the resovouir as you compress the calipers as it can overflow. I'm sure the brake pistons collectiviely use more fluid than what it carries.

• Get an impact driver. Get new screws.
• Hang the caliper on a hook when changing over the disc.
• Remove the brake dust and give everything a good clean. Be wary of the dust, could contain asbestos. Lightly spray with water if bad and a good dust pan brush, don't use compressed air
• Remove some fluid with a 80 ml syringe from the brake reservoir. (get one from a vet if need be)
• Get a good size G-clamp. Use the old pad to depress the cylinder back in with the G-Clamp.
• Do not pump the brakes or touch the brake pedal until the wheels are back on the car or at least both brakes are fully reinstated.
• Before you put the disc on the car and after you remove the brand new disc from the box and plastic wrap (which will have a light film of oil). Get some acetone or metho and wipe all the oil off the disc. If you don't, all you work will be a waste of time. Your new brake pads will be contaminated and they will most likely squeal like never before. (VERY IMPORTANT)

Easy job and enjoyable. put some tunes on and spin the spanners.

Next job is the suspension. Also an easy job.

Originally Posted by Lemo

Pretty easy Julian!
I replaced the Phillips head counter sunk screw with a Allan head screw, so next time I need to get them off it’s a whole lots easier!!

Also check the backing plate for cracks around the bolts and use some anti seize on all the bolts etc
Give the caliper slides a good service and lube as well!

Cheers Lemo

What thread size?