DIIA EGTs and other things

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I would also remove all impediments to cooling although I have to say IMHO there is little correlation between engine temp and EGTs.
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air flow through to rads definitely make a huge difference .. similar to adding a larger(eg. Serck) IC.

On my D1 Tdi, when I was trying to work out why I was getting excessive coolant heating last summer(with A/C on only) I tried running with the grille removed for a while.
Made a massive difference to coolant temps(~20°C or so) but I wasn't expecting the difference to EGT that it also made, not having the grille restrict airflow.
I don't have massive spotties restricting air flow either, just a small LED light bar that really doesn't make any difference to flow.

But on a repeated test drive up a hill in the Tdi, I'd easily get to 720°C 3/4 or the way up trying to maintain 80k/h or more, where the torque converter would lock/unlock.
720°C is my chicken out point, but I'm sure the Tdi would do more if I tried too.

Remove the grille and no matter how hard I tried, it peaked at about 690°C on the final run still holding high 90's k/h. Holding 90-ish k/h up this hill was a lot easier, with EGT hovering between 650-680°C varying accelerator to suit.

The other thing I stuffed up with on my Tdi is adding a muffler type rear resonator to eliminate the annoying drone exhaust. That added a minimum of 50°C. Centre muffler is more of a straight through type, just to help a little with keeping exhaust to acceptable levels.

In all my mucking about trying to keep coolant temps moderate, and not near on 120°C, as Philip said, engine temps have very little effect on EGT levels.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

BUT really , you are pushing it with a plus 3tonne caravan.

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Its not me that wanted a bloody palace on wheels, but happy wife - liveable life.
I just tootle along at whatever the TD5 can manage, and try my best to let everyone else get past ASAP but safely.
These days, most people don't understand the now rarely seen old truckie "1 RHS indicator flash" means safe to pass/I know you are coming around. I've also heard that some think you are about to turn right.[bigwhistle]


And as for those city types who have no idea on a country road, and don't get me started as to when they sit behind you until halfway down the straight, then overtake in gay abandon, and then have to cut in front.:bat:

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

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These days, most people don't understand the now rarely seen old truckie "1 RHS indicator flash" means safe to pass/I know you are coming around. ...

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Unfortunately most people don't understand anything when it comes to driving .. full stop!(don't expect them to understand something as common sense as the above!).

Your better off now flicking your left indicator these days, even most truckles thinking your turning right now.

Removing grill would of helped as the intercooler would of been able to run cooler, cooler intake means denser air dense air means leaner running in a diesel which means cooler egt temps.

just remember the richer a diesel runs the hotter the egt will be, so for a cooler egt you basically want as much mass air density as possible, on a td5 you get that ether with more boost or more cooling of the boost both will add to the mass air density.

with the grill removed you would of also got less heat soak due to extra airflow through the engine bay

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

These days, most people don't understand the now rarely seen old truckie "1 RHS indicator flash" means safe to pass/I know you are coming around. I've also heard that some think you are about to turn right.[bigwhistle]

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This confused me when I first came over to Aus, coming from the UK a couple flashes of the left indicator was saying good to pass, a flash of the right would mean I’m turning right or about to move right to pass something.

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Originally Posted by kelvo

This confused me when I first came over to Aus, coming from the UK a couple flashes of the left indicator was saying good to pass, a flash of the right would mean I’m turning right or about to move right to pass something.

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That's why we initially had the single rhs indicator to overtake, cos otherwise truckies would have used continuous indication to turn left or right, and the single LHS flicker meant say behind, not safe to pass.
Might appear convoluted logic to some, but used to work well for us old farts. [bigsmile]

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Originally Posted by Leo109

Hi All,

A few more questions about our MY03 DIIA, if I may.

How do I remove the cross bars from the roof rails? They look like there is a toggle latch at the ends but they don't seem to want to move with reasonable force. Any hints?

I've always been impressed with the Td5's get up and go. The ECU has a TRS sticker on it, so presumably it has been re-mapped. We towed our caravan with the DIIA for the first time last week. The auto would lock-up in 3rd above about 70km/h and tenaciously hold on to lock-up down to below 2000 rpm under fairly heavy load. (I would actually prefer it if it would drop out of lock-up a little earlier as, when it does let go the revs jump straight up to 3000+) But the main concern is EGT. I fitted a gauge (pre-turbo) just before we headed off (Lesson of the Day: Don't leave the rag under the manifold you put there to catch swarf etc.!! Fortunately SWMBO has a very sensitive nose for 'strange smells'!)

As soon as the load goes up (moderate hill) the EGT rockets up at least twice as fast as the old 300Tdi (well fuelled-up). It would rocket past 700 C and a couple of times exceeded 760 C before I caught it. And the reason I was repeatedly caught out early on is that the throttle was nowhere near WOT at the time. The vehicle seemed to be doing it fairly easily on part throttle when I'd glance at the EGT and see alarming numbers! So, can anyone tell me:

• Is the TRS ECU known to be a pretty aggressive tune?
• What pre-turbo EGTs are others getting when towing 2T plus?
• Apart from a less aggressive tune, what else can I do to to lower EGT? Lady Daphne II still has standard cooled EGR, CAT and exhaust system. I've bought an EGR removal kit and intend to fit a Provent or equivalent, then to wash out the intercooler and inlet manifold. Is this likely to help? What about CAT removal? Vehicle has about 160,000km.
• If a re-map is recommended, can any heavy 'van towers recommend a suitable tune and source?

Thanks for any hints.

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first check that someone hasn't fitted an msb ( old style ecu )
if NNN type then what you are doing , as well as decat and high flow muffler and increasing boost to 21 psi if standard turbo will all help .
TRS tune can be a bit marginal for heavy towing but managable with above and bigger intercooler. It's all about flow, cooling, and reducing restrictions

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

If I can assume the response is in reply to my post, for which many thanks, I have added some comments as below.

1 - ironically I scored a home made water spray unit some time ago, and I'm just waiting to decide which car is going to be the long term tug before fitting.

2 - I think the Serik intercooler is one of the biggest around - certainly bigger than the D2a version it replaced, and noticed a distinct improvement when fitted (about 4 years ago).

3 - don't have a larger turbo, but was impressed with the recently fitted hybrid cartridge from the group buy on here.

4 - Have removed the flex joint and mid muffler.

5 - boost reads about 90 - 110 in the towing scenario according to my Evo.

6 - as soon as I get my act together (I've been procrastinating/waiting 4 years now) will be talking to Jose at TD5Inside about a long overdue revisit of my MAP after replacing my first/dud engine, and to minimise a flat spot at 1800/2000 rpm under heavy towing at speed, although the hybrid turbo cartridge seems to have made this less pronounced.

Thanks again, and have a few suggestions to follow - I hope dazzaTD5 and discorevy are reading this, and I feel another trip to Albany coming up [bigwhistle].

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yes Gavin, Albany is a good place to be.... come down and I'll have a look but it does sound like your boost is a bit low if that is max?.
however , the biggest impediment for you would be gearing, with your set up at 80 kph you are not even doing 2300 rpm in 3rd lock up, which isn't enough to keep things spinning fast enough to work properly when hauling the palace ( see above re flow ), the TD5 are quite happy and efficient between 2500 -3200 towing.

When you decide which is going to be the tow tug I would either fit it with defender high range gears ( approx 2650 rpm @ 80 kph in 3rd lock up.....sweet )
diff ratio changes or even standard size tyres will help.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

Watch the boost too cos if it's not the best you can increase it to max allowed by shorteing the wastegate rod or using a MBC then the EGT will drop a bit.... IMO 760 spikes with heavy trailer uphill might not be scary as long as it drops while cruising on motorway to around 400

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this as well ^^^

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

That's why we initially had the single rhs indicator to overtake, cos otherwise truckies would have used continuous indication to turn left or right, and the single LHS flicker meant say behind, not safe to pass.
Might appear convoluted logic to some, but used to work well for us old farts. [bigsmile]

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Ha! you said that as if it made sense [bigsmile]
If a system's logic is fundamentally flawed (or convoluted) - ie Right indicator can mean 'I'm turning right' and also 'It's ok for you to pass', then it's bound to die out, possibly because those who use it gradually get killed off in tragic accidents.
I'm old enough to remember this madness and I'm glad it's gone.
Back to the topic though, I've got a Serck intercooler, EGR delete, cat delete, stupid water-pipe delete, standard turbo, a Provent and an egt gauge (before the turbo) with a very annoying buzzer set to go off at 700C.
I have deliberately not tried to increase the amount of fuel by re-mapping of any other means, primarily because I don't need to go any faster and I want my engine to last a long time (D2a with 160Kks). I occasionally tow an excellent but relatively light-weight off-road trailer.
This will seem like a very safe set-up and it certainly results in much lower egts than before I did all the mods but - and this is an important but - with the car unloaded and no trailer, I can still get that buzzer to screech if I use WOT on a long, steep hill. Mind you, by the time it goes off, we're flying, but the point still remains that you can get the temperatures up there - even with the most conservative mods, if your foot is too heavy for the conditions.

I have noticed in my manual Td5 with an stage 2 td5inside map that if your in 5th and slow down to 80kph that the egts go up considerably untill I go back into 4th and add more air and revs to the motor and not fuel, Too much throttle at lower speeds just increases the fuel and heat untill EGT are up high enough to snap the exhaust studs and warp the manifold

Many thanks to all who've replied to my questions First chance I've had to get back on here and read them all...

After all the advice, I decided it was time to connect the Nanocom and my precision data logging equipment (i.e. my good lady, with pen and note pad) and record some boost figures. And sure enough, the highest we saw, with full throttle and ~3000rpm, was 1.15 bar (~16.7 psi) - which from all accounts is very low for a Td5, especially with a re-mapped ECU (which is a NNN type to whoever asked).

So, next step will be to try to get that up - to about 1.4 bar? Next silly question (and without looking it up in RAVE): as the Td5 has a boost pressure modulator, won't the ECU still limit maximum boost despite my best efforts at shortening the wastegate linkage?

As I said, many thanks for the EGT info. Now, any takers on the roof rail cross bar question? Ta.